citypaper: archives

Nobody's Patsy
Winchester rejected her, and Patsy Cline remains a homeless celebrity ghost in her own hometown.

Cover Story

In Winchester, Va., as in many a small Southern town, the rich dine at the country club and the poor drink at the dives.

I have come to Winchester, an hour's drive west of Washington, to look for the celebrity ghost of Patsy Cline, so I stop at the first beer joint that catches my eye. The Stonewall Grill sits on the railroad tracks across from an abandoned depot and in the shadow of a Confederate cemetery. Its name pays homage both to its rock-and-mortar exterior and to the Rebel leader who headquartered in Winchester during the Civil War.

Inside, a jukebox blares country music for customers relaxing after the day shift. Some are busy playing shuffleboard on a long table that dominates the small, dark place. They share an intense concentration; there is no shouting or cheerleading, only grunted nods of “Good shot.” Indeed, it is soothing—almost hypnotizing—to watch the pucks silently pierce the settling cigarette smoke and glide ever so smoothly down the table's powdered wood surface.

In a nearby booth, an elderly woman clutches a can of Milwaukee's Best, rubbing her eyes and squinting at the shuffleboard activity a few feet away. She wears a bewildered, drowsy gaze, as if she has just awakened from a Rip Van Winkle slumber and now sees a vision of Ronnie Van Zandt longhairs bowling tenpins. The music stops; somebody needs to go feed the jukebox. But the game has everyone's attention.

“Where's my Patsy Cline song?” sputters the old woman in slurred outrage. “I put in money to hear Patsy—where in the hell is she?”... Continued

Issue of Apr. 7 - 13, 1995

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