El Pollo Primo

There is one thing, and only one thing, to go for here, but if you’ve ever dug into a piece of tasteless, rubbery chicken you’ll know it’s enough of a thing to warrant a trip to this Peruvian fast-food joint. The birds are soaked in a lemon-lime-oregano marinade, then grilled slowly over an open flame, which leaves the flesh surprisingly moist and the skin crispy and golden. Every now and again, you may find yourself having seemingly inexplicable cravings for a couple of pieces, and as soon as you step out of your car and sniff the rich, fragrant air outside the shop you’ll remember why. The picnic-friendly sides—potato salad, pinto beans, corn on the cob—are unremarkable.
—Todd Kliman, July 20, 2004