Buon Appetito

The prices have gone up at this Tenleytown eatery, and there�s more aggression on the part of the wait staff than in years past, particularly when it comes to wine, but this remains a likable, neighborhoody place in a neighborhood that often doesn�t feel like a neighborhood. Among the highlights on the pasta-filled menu are the soft yet resilient gnocchi, the zippy shrimp fra diavolo, and the ravioli, which, in one variation, come stuffed with either lobster or crab and succeed nicely in what might appear to be a high-endy sort of reach. The pizzas, including a seafood pie and a lamb-and-feta pie, are homemade, and consistency isn�t a strong suit: Sometimes the dough is too heavy, or the toppings too lightly applied, to make a good impression. But when everything�s clicking, this is a tasty, satisfying pizza. (Take it with a Peroni, and don�t let the waiter bully you into ordering otherwise.) Desserts here belong to that category of simple and not too rich�reason enough to take a peek in the case by the cash register. The rum cake, layered with whipped cream and topped by berries, is a favorite.
—Todd Kliman, July 20, 2004