There are restaurants you go to for gastronomic epiphanies, and there are restaurants you go to because, well, they make you happy. A.V. Ristorante Italiano, the old-school Italian joint that’s sat on New York Avenue NW for nearly six decades, is the latter. The atmosphere alone makes a trip worthwhile: wood paneling, red-checkered tablecloths, and soft opera floating through the air. In the winter, the mammoth fireplace has often been ablaze, and in the summer you can sit outside on a patio complete with a splashing fountain. A few employees are delightfully weathered and surly. And the food, if you order wisely, is down-home and delicious. Strangely, a good rule of thumb is to avoid the pasta. The spaghetti is bland, and the gnocchi is dense. The pizza, thin and loaded with toppings, is a safe bet, as is any veal or pork dish. The saltimbocca, layered with prosciutto and mozzarella, is tender, while the porchetta al forno is flavored with garlic and rosemary. As a bonus, the house red is smooth and perfectly drinkable. But to experience this historic taste of Italy, you’ll have to go soon—A.V. will be closing July 28.
—Kim Gooden, June 29, 2007