Jerry's Seafood

Only a snobbery against all things Prince George’s keeps this place off the typical foodie’s radar—which in turn keeps it from generating the buzz it richly deserves. Granted, there are the steep, steep prices, which are more typical of the fancy, expense-account joints downtown than of an eatery in a nondescript strip mall in Seabrook. But if a place has good food and friendly service, who cares how modest the digs? The seafood is first-rate. Crab is the house specialty, though as the restaurant’s ardent regulars—a mixture of young and old, black and white, singles and families—will tell you, you don’t come here looking for something so pedestrian as a crab cake. Jerry’s model is called the Crab Bomb: lump crab only, held together with a minimum of mayo, seasoned with lemon juice and Tabasco, and mounded so high on the plate you might think you’d ordered a softball. It’s also available as the Spicy Crab Bomb. At 30 bucks, it ain’t cheap, but it just might be some of the best crab you’ll ever eat.
—Todd Kliman, July 20, 2004