Ledo Pizza

A local institution, and justifiably so. (Though there are now too many offshoots to count—more than is probably good for quality—the original location, in Adelphi, with its wood-paneled dining room and ’50s-style bar, is the best, if only because of its sense of history.) First-timers are generally taken aback by the rectangular pies, and the sweetness of the sauce, and especially the flaky, almost pastry-like crust of the pizza. New York—style it ain’t. (As if everything in this town should look to New York for validation!) Locals know: The pizza is excellent; the rest of the menu—subs, pastas, chicken dishes—is mediocre. The kitchen does offer up a nice, old-fashioned antipasto, big enough for a table of four.
—Todd Kliman, July 20, 2004