Ray's Butcher Burgers

Review by meliakristin on September 23, 2009

For all of the post-Obama glow Ray’s Hell Burger is basking in now, I think it’s high time we subject the burger joint to a bit of well intentioned constructive criticism. Michael Landrum’s move to expand his carnivorous franchise beyond t-bones and filets to include the more pedestrian burger was undoubtedly a smart business move. But the burgers at Ray’s have garnered so much local buzz in the past months that it’s become impossible to rationally deconstruct the appeal of the “Hell Burger.” For starters, the meat in the burger is of higher than average quality and thickness. These characteristics lend themselves well to the creation of a well balanced burger, charred on the outside, moist and slightly juicy on the inside. But does Ray’s merit all of the hoopla? I often hold up the Zuni Café burger as the gold standard of sandwich faire. Admittedly, it is not completely fair to compare the 7 dollar burger at Ray’s to the 17 dollar equivalent at Zuni. On the other hand, the Zuni Café burger imparts critical lessons in the arts of burger making. The Zuni Café burger features the perfect ratio of meat to starch, crunch to juice, salt to tang. When all of these characteristics meld in the form of exquisitely fresh ingredients, you have a burger that even the snootiest of consumers cannot resist. Ray’s burger is good. But the over all burger experience could be better. First, the produce used in the storied Ray’s burger is of marginal quality. Certainly cost comes into play here, but I can’t help but wonder what the cost break down would be if Ray’s used locally raised tomatoes and greens instead of the mass produced drivel they use now. If a simple burger joint like Ray’s is comfortable placing something as showy as foie on the menu, you would think they would be equally comfortable using organic, locally raised produce. Secondly, the sides at Ray’s Hell Burger are vexing to say the least. There is a reason that the quintessential America burger generally comes with a serving of fries. The light crunch of a perfectly prepared frite complements the protein of a burger resulting in a balanced dining experience. The macaroni and cheese served at Ray’s however, is down right madness. The heavy, starchy creaminess of the macaroni and cheese competes with burger resulting in a veritable culinary tug of war. And then there is the gloopy droll they call coleslaw at Ray’s. Not to get snarky but the coleslaw at KFC is better. Ray’s needs to step up its sides show. The macaroni and cheese has no business being on the menu in the first pace. The slaw would benefit from house made mayonnaise and use of real cabbage vs. the stuff that comes out of an industrial sized bag (Ray’s I know what your up to using that shredded array of carrots and cabbage that comes out of a big Dole bag from Costco). Most importantly, nix those potato balls from your menu. The frite does not require this sort of gratuitous post modern rumination that all too frequently results in poorly executed foams and corn dog lollipops (ech!). I don’t know if those potato balls are meant to be tater tots or just a rousing reinterpretation of the humble potato—either way Ray’s needs to craft a fine frite. A good frite will make a good burger great so note to Ray’s: banish the mac and cheese, break out the local produce and fry up the potatoes-then maybe, just maybe Obama will return for an encore.