Photograph by Darrow Montgomery
Hollywood Eastâ€™s forced relocation wasnâ€™t easy on anybody, neither the owners nor the many diners who had come to rely on Janet Yuâ€™s University Boulevard outpost for their daily dose of dim sum. When the Yu family finally reopened its place in April, it was in the Westfield Shopping Center, a spot better suited for food on a stick than steam buns from a rolling cart. But Hollywood East has carved out a respected location in the mall, an impersonal space that relies on those doughy bundles to provide comfort and warmth. All the regular items have followed Yu to Westfield: the pleated, seashell-like dumplings known as har gau; the translucent rice crepes wrapped around plump shrimp; the sweet steamed buns concealing barbecued pork; the fried taro balls. The speed at which the dishes come at you can make you feel as if Hollywood East is just some dim-sum factory churning out comestibles like a Guangdong sweatshop, but the freshness and flavors will reveal the truth: The cooks hand-make every single item on premise, creating hundreds and hundreds of sweet and savory packages for the restaurantâ€™s lunchtime service. Your main problem at the new Hollywood East wonâ€™t be ignoring the mall rats outside the window; itâ€™ll be learning to pace yourself as one cart after another rolls your way.
11160 Veirs Mill Road, Wheaton (240) 290-9988
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