One by one, we’re running through the 50 restaurants that made the cut on this year’s

If I had to select a wine bar based strictly on options by the glass, I’d pick Veritas near Dupont Circle over this 14th Street NW hotspot, if only because the former includes some fine American wineries among its well-composed list. But, strange as it sounds, wine alone does not make a wine bar, and chef Ron Tanaka keeps me coming back to Cork for his simple but well-executed small plates. His duck confit and calamari are among my favorites in town, but what delights me most about Tanaka’s menu is how well vegetarians can eat here. Oil-cured Roma tomatoes, house-marinated olives, duxelles with caramelized onions on grilled bread, and, my personal favorite, the bland-sounding plate called “Avocado.” It’s thin slivers of fresh avocado layered on grilled bread, then dusted with ground pistachios and sea salt and drizzled with pistachio oil. Trust me, it’s a dish anyone could love—even a hardcore meat eater.

Addendum: Read restaurant designer Walter Gagliano's take on Cork Wine Bar.

 Cork Wine Bar, 1720 14th St. NW, (202) 265-2675

Photo courtesy of Cork Wine Bar

MJ and Chimp: Not part of Policy's pop-culture decor

Last night, as I was hanging with restaurant designer Walter Gagliano, we stopped at Policy to check out the interior at this new 14th Street hotspot. Gagliano had plenty of interesting things to say about the restaurant/lounge, far more than I thought any human being could possibly have for a spot that looks, essentially, like an S&M dungeon with designer cocktails.

But as we were sitting there, dipping our toasted pita into a trio of spreads, I couldn't help but notice the music. It was one Michael Jackson tune after another. Finally, after about the sixth song from the King of Perpetual Adolescence, I turned to Gagliano and asked, "Have you noticed the music? It's all Michael Jackson. Do you think that's on purpose?" It didn't seem to fit the vibe, nor the target audience, that Policy was aiming for.

Gagliano appeared perplexed as well and wondered if Policy didn't have a jukebox tucked away somewhere, to which an obsessive MJ fan was feeding a bank roll of quarters.  Neither one of us had the desire to go searching the joint for that possible secret jukebox.

Later, as I was standing on the sidewalk and talking via cell to Amanda Hess to relate Gagliano's thoughts on Policy, The Sexist told us the bad news: MJ was dead. It all suddenly made sense, and I had a newfound sense of respect for Policy for dropping all pretense at hipness in order to mourn a man/child whose once immense talent had been reduced to an unfortunate freak show. I wish I could go back to that moment at Policy and relive it, knowing what I know now. The experience would have been far different.

If you haven't read them yet, Walter Gagliano also shared his thoughts on two other 14th Street/U Street spots: Cork Wine Bar and Station 9.

Photo by dalbera via Flickr, Creative Common