Just call Derek Brown, left, Mr. Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional

Y&H is a behind on this (hey, if you want excuses, I got a million of ‘em!), but I wanted to offer my congratulations to the local semi-finalists for this year’s James Beard Awards. It’s an impressive list, one filled with many of Y&H’s favorites.

Compare this year’s semi-finalists to last year’s, and you’ll see the D.C. area had a couple more nominees in 2010. The local nominees are listed after the jump.

OUTSTANDING RESTAURATEUR

• Ashok Bajaj, owner of 701, Ardeo, Bardeo, Bibiana Osteria-Entoteca, The Bombay Club, The Oval Room, and Rasika.

OUTSTANDING CHEF

• José Andrés, minibar

OUTSTANDING RESTAURANT

• Vidalia

RISING STAR CHEF OF THE YEAR

• Johnny Monis, Komi

BEST NEW RESTAURANT

• Eventide
• J & G Steakhouse
• Trummer’s on Main in Clifton

OUTSTANDING PASTRY CHEF

• Amanda Cook, CityZen

OUTSTANDING WINE SERVICE

• Restaurant Eve

OUTSTANDING WINE AND SPIRITS PROFESSIONAL

• Derek Brown, The Passenger

OUTSTANDING SERVICE

• Marcel’s

BEST CHEF: MID-ATLANTIC

• Cathal Armstrong, Restaurant Eve
• Tony Conte, The Oval Room
• Melissa Close Hart, Palladio at Barboursville Vineyards in Barboursville
• Peter Pastan, Obelisk
• Vikram Sunderam, Rasika
• Bryan Voltaggio, Volt in Frederick
• Spike Gjerde, Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore

Tonight officially kicks off winter D.C. Restaurant Week, which means that if you haven’t already secured your reservations to the city’s finest, priciest dining rooms, you’re pretty much screwed.  Because, let’s be honest, if you’re not hitting the most expensive restaurants, you’re not getting much bang for your buck during RW.

Once you start figuring in drinks, upcharges, gratuities, and that dessert course that you’d never order under normal circumstances, you don’t always walk away from Restaurant Week, thinking, “My God! What a deal!” You think: “My God, what just hit me? Didn’t I come in here looking to spend $35?”

With the idea that many of the best reservations have been snagged already, Y&H offers you the Ten Best Deals still out there for Restaurant Week. (Incidentally, I have focused on dinners only, since lunch tends to be a better deal all around; each of these ten recommendations had seats available by Monday afternoon.)

This list is after the jump.

• 701: This year’s RW menu is a little more streamlined than last winter’s version, but chef Adam Longworth has put together a quality list of appetizers and entrees, including plates of pork loin and salmon. Only Thursday evening is booked, a hostess tells me.
• Dino: Dean Gold does one of the best Restaurant Week programs in town. His whole menu is available, including the terrific duck beggar’s purse, with only two upcharges on the entire thing. Even better: Wines over $50 a bottle are 33 percent off the entire month of January, which is how long Gold’s RW runs as well. Reservations are still available, but you may have to accept a late seating on Thursday. Friday, or Saturday.
• Ristorante Tosca: You may have to elbow your way through a roomful of lobbyists (and who wouldn’t like to elbow a lobbyist?), but chef Massimo Fabbri is putting his best food forward for RW, with only two upcharges. Reservations are available, though only late and early seatings on Friday and Saturday. Tosca is closed on Sunday.
  
• Johnny’s Half Shell: Beard Award-winning chef Ann Cashion has fashioned a solid RW menu that features a few of the Shell’s classic dishes, including the Maryland crabcake (only one per order) and New Orleans file gumbo.  Reservations are available all week.
• PS 7’s: Some of Peter Smith’s best plates are specials that seemingly appear out of nowhere — I’m thinking of his recent merguez sausage with buttery sourdough croutons — but this RW menu offers a chance to taste the chef’s winter experiments with gastriques. Most of the prime seatings, between 7 and 8 p.m., are taken, but early and late tables are available.
• Kaz Sushi Bistro: It’s unusual for a sushi house to stand out during RW, but I think chef Kaz Okochi has put together a winning four-course menu comprised of appetizers, sushi (upcharges for the pricey fish, of course), hand rolls, and desserts. Lots of good seats are still available.
• Firefly: Even though the braised delights of the “mini” pot roast come with a $6 upcharge, many of chef Danny Bortnick’s other RW offerings carry no supplemental fees. Don’t miss his salt-roasted baby beets, which put a new twist on the traditional winter dish. You may have to accept late or early seatings on Friday or Saturday, but the rest of the week is wide open.
• New Heights: You could argue that this isn’t much of a deal, given that you can already get three courses for $38 any ol’ day, but chef Logan Cox has expanded the options for RW, with only one upcharge. I think it’s time I gave Cox another chance, don’t you?  Seating is wide open here, even for the weekend.
• Farmers & Fishers (aka Agraria): Last year’s face-lift at this Washington Harbor restaurant ushered in a more casual concept. So it only makes sense that for RW, Farmers & Fishers would expand the promotion to four courses for $35, which actually makes it a deal. Saturday looks like a tough get, but the rest of the dates are open.
• Vidalia: Jeffrey Buben’s place generated some controversy last year during RW, but this year, the downtown institution is coming out strong, with one of the most well-composed menus for the week. There’s a reason this place is almost booked. Only late seatings left on most days. Get ‘em while you can!

Here’s hoping your Restaurant Week experience is better than you (and definitely I) expect it to be. Please send me your RW experiences via e-mail when you’re finished. I’ll collect the best of them and put them on the Young & Hungry blog.

Yesterday, readers of the Young & Hungry newsletter (hint, hint: sign up at right) got first word on who won the D.C. Dish Hall of Fame. Today, we tell everyone the results of our debut contest, which we launched back in October with the idea of sussing out the dishes that best define the D.C. metro area.

From the very beginning, voters were clear on their favorite. It’s the same one that Bill Cosby loves. The same one that puzzled future president Barack Obama. The same one made in Baltimore but rich in D.C. history.

Yep, you know it as the chili half-smoke from Ben’s Chili Bowl.

The famous link in the natural casing, topped with the joint’s dark signature meat gravy, beat the nearest competitor, the falafel from Amsterdam Falafelshop, by more than 100 votes. In terms of this contest, that’s a landslide.

It’s a landslide particularly when you consider that Ben’s, unlike Amsterdam, did not solicit customers to vote for its dish. Nizam Ali, the youngest son of founders Virginia and the late Ben Ali, says he didn’t even know about the Hall of Fame voting until late last week. At that point, he told a handful of friends about it, and even voted himself, but didn’t promote the contest at the Bowl.

Who did Nizam Ali vote for? “I voted for us, of course,” says Ali, who now runs Ben’s with older brother Kamal. “I voted for Horace & Dickie’s fried fish and what was the other one? I can’t remember now.”

“Oh, I think it was 2Amys,” he says about the pizzeria’s Margherita pie.

Many of the 1,238 voters agreed with Ali’s choices. More than 500 of them voted for the chili half-smoke, followed by the falafel at Amsterdam (395 votes), the hamburger at Five Guys (259), the Peruvian chicken at El Pollo Rico (193), and the Margherita pizza at 2Amys (186). These five dishes make up the inaugural class of the D.C. Dish Hall of Fame.

“It is only because of the loyal following of our customers that we could have achieved something like this, and we are honored beyond belief to be included with the likes of true landmarks like Ben’s, and true culinary delights like 2Amys,” writes Arianne Bennett, co-owner of Amsterdam Falafelshop with husband, Scott.

Bennett’s not kidding about the loyal following. Their customers are so loyal, they take orders. Bennett admits that Amsterdam added a note to the bottom of the shop’s receipts, urging customers to vote; she also alerted the vegetarian community in an effort to solicit more votes for the only veggie option in the competition. Maybe as a result, many of the comments we received about Amsterdam’s falafel were nothing less than gushing.

A sample: “Amsterdam has the Best Falefel ever, I adore them and wish there was one right next to my house!”

Then again, Ben’s earned its praise without any prodding from the restaurant. Consider this reader comment: “As much as I enjoy a nice dinner at Central or Cafe Atlantico, nothing beats a half-smoke. And no half-smoke beats one from Ben’s. I just moved away from DC after 22 years this fall, and the idea that I won’t ever be able to eat a half-smoke unless I’m visiting my parents kills me.”

Or consider what chefs think about Ben’s half-smoke, despite the fact that it’s a commercial sausage produced by Manger Packing Corp. in Baltimore. “I have had the half smoke with chili. I have had the half smoke with a fried egg. I think it’s good,” says chef R.J. Cooper of Vidalia, where he’s been known to make his own sausages. “Is it the quintessential Washington, D.C. food? If anything is it, that would have to be it.”

The interesting thing is that both Ben’s and Amsterdam — one an institution, the other a budding one — are still formulating or thinking about franchising plans. Could either one (or both) become the next Five Guys, a once (and always) beloved local institution that has spread its seed all over the country?

The question is rather loaded, especially for Nizam Ali and family. Ali said he had read Y&H’s recent blog item, in which I wondered whether Five Guys’ burger was still Hall of Fame worthy given that the chain’s aggressive franchising has (sometimes) hurt the quality of its product (not to mention managers’ ability to make sure cooks know how to griddle those patties properly).

“I thought to myself, Hey, if and when or somewhere down the line if the Chili Bowl franchises, would that knock the half-smoke or Ben’s out of the running[for a place among D.C.'s iconic dishes]?” Nizam Ali says. “It’s an interesting question.”

It’s an interesting question for the Alis because, for 51 years now, they have prided themselves on their personal touch at Ben’s. They’ve prided themselves on the history that the U Street institution oozes. They’ve prided themselves, in short, on being a family-run business.

“Because of the history and legacy of the family, we really want to do it our way and kind of want to keep control of it,” Nizam Ali says. “The Chili Bowl has been all about family, and we want to keep our family intact. So if I’m running around selling franchises and my brother’s running and going to the openings and checking the quality, then we’re both divorced…You know what I mean? So what’s more important? The running around and opening thousands of stores or making sure that your home life is happy and all that stuff. That’s kind of more important to us.”

At the same time, the Alis have not ruled out franchising altogether. It’s probably impossible to rule out franchising when the family constantly receives calls about it. But here’s hoping that Ben’s never becomes another Five Guys, no matter how much money they could make from it.

As a final note, I want to thank all of you who participated in our very first D.C. Dish Hall of Fame contest. If you have some thoughts about the results, please e-mail them to me, and I’ll publish the best on the blog.

In the meantime, go out and congratulate the winners by visiting their restaurants.

The inaugural class of the D.C. Dish Hall of Fame:

Half-smoke with chili at Ben’s Chili Bowl, 502 votes

Falafel at Amsterdam Falafelshop, 395

Hamburger at Five Guys, 259

Peruvian chicken at El Pollo Rico, 193

Margherita pizza at 2Amys, 186

R.J. Cooper received a call last week from a fish supplier who asked if the Vidalia chef would like to buy a few specimens of this western-Atlantic monstrosity called the “hog snapper,” an ugly beauty also known as the hogfish. (It doesn’t take much imagination to figure out where the name comes from.)

I happened to be at Vidalia for other reasons when Cooper thought I needed a look at the hog snapper. Neither one of us had ever tried the fish before, so Cooper took out a knife and a steel, honed his blade, and started to cut up the snapper.

The flesh is milky white and flakes apart with barely any pressure from Cooper’s knife. The fillet looks so inviting that Cooper makes the right call and samples it sashimi style. He sprinkles on some sea salt, olive oil, and Espelette pepper and gobbles them down straight.

I follow suit, and the flavor blows me away. This is no mere mild white fish in which the sauce must provide the majority of the flavor. The hogfish flesh is sweet and clean — and practically as rich as freshly made mozzarella. When Vidalia’s sommelier and manager Doug Mohr walks into the kitchen, Cooper gives him a bite. Mohr starts gushing about the flavors, too.

That’s when Cooper makes a decision right then and there: The hogfish will be served sashimi style. No heat treatment for this creature of the sea.

The snapper will be on Vidalia’s menu this weekend, Cooper says. Look for it to be served raw, with accents of king crab, watermelon radish, ruby grapefruit, and coconut emulsion.

More pics of the hog snapper after the jump.

With only three weeks of voting left in the D.C. Dish Hall of Fame, the leaderboard remains virtually unchanged from last week’s, save for a little jockeying at the bottom and 2Amys‘ suddenly move into a fourth-place tie with the falafel sandwich at Amsterdam.

Remember, only the top five dishes will be part of the Hall’s inaugural class. So if you don’t like the looks of the list below, get voting.

1. Half-smoke with chili at Ben’s Chili Bowl, 334 votes
2. Hamburger at Five Guys, 157
3. Peruvian chicken at El Pollo Rico, 128
4. Margherita pizza at 2Amys, 115
5. Falafel at Amsterdam Falafelshop, 115
6. Burger from Ray’s Hell Burger, 99
7. Salty oat cookie at Teaism, 98
8. Palak chaat at Rasika, 89
9. Pho at Pho 75, 88
10. Fried whiting at Horace & Dickie’s, 83

The interesting thing is, several high-end dishes are holding their breath just below the surface of the Top 10 list. Check it out:

11. Atomica pizza at Pizzeria Paradiso, 58

12. Lobster burger at Central Michel Richard, 46

13. Cowboy-cut bone-in ribeye at Ray’s the Steaks, 45

14. Shrimp and grits at Vidalia, 41

15. Spit-roasted goat at Komi, 41

With a coordinated campaign, any one of these dishes could easily sneak into the rarefied air of the Top 5. So what are you waiting for? Start canvassing for votes!

Photo by Darrow Montgomery

I was bested last night. The subject of the beer tasting was the vaunted strongest beer in the world, Samuel Adams Utopias. It’s brewed every other year in limited quantities — they made 10,000 bottles of the ’09s — and comes with a proportionately high price tag of $150. This year’s batch weighs in at 27% abv, about two-thirds the strength of whiskey or vodka.

It was my second attempt at tasting the rare beer, because the first tasting I meant to attend was the morning of Savor, the day after an event that left me irreparably drunk and broken. But I showed up to Vidalia yesterday, spry, sober, and ready to taste.

As the snifters of Utopias were set on our table, wafts of alcohol clouded our airspace, carrying bracing brandy and raisin aromas. I ventured closer to my snifter and singed a few nose hairs. Swirled, the thick amber liquid clung to the sides of the glass like whiskey. I sipped, fearfully. Gin I can do straight, but I am not a brandy drinker. I can manage whiskey with the aid of ice and bitters. My first sip of Utopias was a shock, hot in the mouth. I swished it around a bit and swallowed; light burn. Then the flavors started to come out: buttery caramel, toffee, some more raisins and brandy.

After a few tooth-sucking sips, my tongue got sleepy and cranky at me for the beating I’d given it. I traded my snifter with a fellow of scholarly age at my table for a second helping of the Samuel Adams Triple Bock, the other extreme beer we received. (The man was a distinguished retiree, with cardigan and tie, who in my mental caricature sipped cognac at home in his burgundy robe. He could get more out of this firewater than I.) And there I sat with my Triple Bock, like a kid licking a spatula of cake batter.

The Triple Bock was my discovery of the night, a warming barleywine of 18.5% abv with notes of chocolate, booze, chocolate and chocolate. It poured a near-black with violet edges and tasted like raw brownie mix. My dad’s brownie mix, to be specific, with it’s red, rusty cocoa powder. A little buttery, a little grainy and even salty. They only made it between 1994 and 1997, but apparently bottles are still floating around, and if you find one they’re only about $10.

Moral of the story: Utopias is extreme in ways that I am not. I couldn’t finish my glass, and I wouldn’t be excited about tasting it again. But if you find a dusty bottle of Triple Bock, pay the $10 and, um, let me know if you want to go halfsies.

A couple of weeks ago, Y&H asked you to nominate the entrees and appetizers and desserts that you felt were worthy of inclusion into a D.C. Dish Hall of Fame. Y’all tore into the assignment like a pack of wolves on a dead carcass.  I received Tweets, personal e-mails, and lots of suggestions via the comments section.

Then for this week’s Young & Hungry column, I contacted a few chefs for their input on HOF dishes. All told, between the public and chefs, you nominated more than 100 dishes, with very little overlap. I’ve narrowed down the list down to the 30 dishes that could represent D.C. well, if elected to the hall.

Now it’s your turn. You can vote for three dishes and three dishes only. The top five vote-getters will be part of the inaugural class of the D.C. Dish Hall of Fame. You have until Dec. 11 to vote.

Pass the word around!

Photo by Darrow Montgomery

The Margherita at 2Amys: Does it make the cut?

Earlier this week, I was noshing on the roast chicken at Palena Cafe, reveling once again in Frank Ruta’s ability to add and coax flavors from this generous, succulent portion of breast, wing, and leg meat. That’s when the thought struck me: This is, hands-down, one of the area’s greatest dishes. It deserves a spot in some sort of local culinary hall of fame.

The roast chicken is an obvious one, but what other dishes would make the cut? I’ve been pondering this and have drafted a number of nominees. The list is, by no means, complete. It needs your suggestions.

Once we get a solid roster of nominees, we’ll put them to a public vote here on the Y&H blog. The top 10 vote getters will go into the City Paper’s inaugural D.C. Dish Hall of Fame. Winners will receive everlasting glory.

The working list of nominees:

• Lobster burger at Central
• Half smoke with chili at Ben’s Chili Bowl
• Fried whiting at Horace & Dickie’s
• Foie-gras lollipops at minibar
• Parker House rolls at CityZen
• Irish BLT at Restaurant Eve
• Shrimp and grits at Vidalia
• Lobster roll at Kinkead’s
• Green papaya salad at Four Sisters
• Margherita pizza at 2Amys
• Floating market noodle soup at Nava Thai
• Butter chicken at Heritage India
• Roasted bone marrow at Blue Duck Tavern
• Palak chaat at Rasika
• Roast chicken at El Pollo Rico
• Mac ‘n’ cheese at Oohhs & Aahhs
• Spare ribs at Mr. P’s
• Pho at Pho 75
• Paella at Jaleo
• Hamburger at Five Guys
• Lingonberry linzertorte at Hook
• Salty oat cookie at Teaism
• Lobster “begula” pasta at Citronelle
• Spit roasted goat at Komi

Y&H had a hard time extracting himself from the office by the start of the FreshFarms Market by the White House yesterday, so I missed all the politico-celebrity speech-making. Fortunately, there were only, say, a thousand other journalist covering that angle. So I focused on, you know, the food. It’s a farmers market after all, even if it’s one as much about symbolism as produce.

Check out Y&H’s photos after the jump.

Vidalia chef R.J. Cooper stopped by the market to pick up what he called “red rattlesnake” beans. He was thinking about making a succotash out of them.

At the market, Spring Valley Farms was calling Cooper’s produce by another name: “bird egg beans.”

The tomatoes were still looking and smelling so good that Y&H picked up a bag of them for home.

This intergenerational team from Cedarbrook Farm was grilling up some fine sweet Italian sausages.

Brussel sprouts so fresh and green that even a hater could love ‘em.

Rain served as nature’s own mist sprayer for the inaugural White House market.

These giant loaves of pane Pugliese from Quail Creek Farms were so gorgeous I thought about buying one — before I realized how much of the loaf would likely go to waste.

Y&H should have known he’d love spicy food one day. I used to eat radishes straight from the garden as a kid.

Some great looking organic garlic from Blueberry Hill Vegetables.

Mmmm, corn on the cob.

Interviews were as much a part of the White House farmers market as vegetables. Y&H spoke with Bernadine Prince (above), with FreshFarm Markets, who said about 2,000 people visited the inaugural White House market yesterday, which is a promising start (though way behind the 6,000 folks who visit the Dupont Circle market on a good day). The FreshFarm Market by the White House is still in its exploratory stage, but Prince thinks there are enough federal workers in the area — 3,000 by her best guess — to keep the market going into the future.

It’s official. People have gone batshit for Select 55. Or at least batshit for our post on the beer. It tops the list once again this week.

I think I’ll go drown my sorrows in a real beer.

1. Budweiser Launches Select 55, Light Beer Arms Race Gets Absurd
2. Looking for a Little Practice, Bibiana Jumps the Gun and Opens for Service Today
3. Oh, the Noise, Noise, Noise, Noise in Restaurants
4. ‘Two Left Feet’ for One Big Steak
5. Did Vidalia Use “Inferior” Ingredients During Restaurant Week?

Photo by Darrow Montgomery