In the interest of fairness, most critics prefer to order only plain margherita pies when evaluating a pizzeria. Sticking to the basic elements helps ensure a level playing field when judging the overall goodness of one pizza versus another. At least in most cases.

On a recent night at Ella’s Wood Fired Pizza in Penn Quarter, however, I can’t help but notice the glaring discrepancies between the pizza in front of me and the one at the next table. Both share the same traditional toppings. But, on appearances alone, the pies are strikingly dissimilar. My neighbor’s crust is lightly charred, with bready bubbles along the edges. You can hear a soft crackling when he bends it in half to take a bite. It has all the qualities diners have come to expect in a town saturated with wood-fired ovens.

Mine, on the other hand, is flat and flimsy, with an almost spongy texture. There are no bubbles to see, and no crunch to hear. You’d be forgiven for suspecting it was sourced from an entirely different eatery.

The real story is somewhat different. My neighbor’s pie is made with the traditional wheat-based dough. Mine, meanwhile, is built upon a wheatless, gluten-free crust.

Hawking a markedly inferior product might sound like a faux pas in the District’s enduring artisanal pizza world, where devotees preach about serving only top-notch ingredients and meeting stringent Italian authenticity standards.

But, for some people, this is progress.

I largely missed out on the early days of D.C.’s pizza renaissance, when Pizzeria Paradiso was beginning to expand its wood-burning reach. My go-to dining companion, the missus, is gluten intolerant. For those still unfamiliar with the term, gluten is a protein found in wheat and other grains that can cause rather unpleasant auto-immune reactions for certain people. Like most folks with gluten issues, my wife originally had no idea what was causing her such intense stomach cramps after meals. Doctors couldn’t pinpoint the problem. Through her own research, she stumbled on the gluten thing.

Cutting bread and other wheat products from her diet eliminated the pain. But easing her suffering severely limited our dining-out agenda. Pizza, for the most part, was a goner.

For a long time, we knew of only one pizzeria that catered to the wheatless, a tiny place called Risotteria that happened to be about 225 miles away in New York’s Greenwich Village. We made regular pilgrimages and substantially narrowed the distance between home and our regular pizza fix by relocating there in 2006.

When I returned to D.C. last year, I found a food scene that had undergone some significant changes—including in the wheat-avoidance department. And it’s not just specialty dietetic joints, either: At least half a dozen mainstream, up-market D.C. pizzerias currently carry gluten-free crusts. It’s become a big selling point for some places, which might otherwise miss an entire demographic of new customers, the gluten-adverse as well as those who dine with them. Some operators, including the Homemade Pizza Co., make the gluten-free component a prominent feature in storefront advertisements like the ones at its 14th Street NW store.

From a critic’s standpoint, none of these pies will ever earn official Denominazione di Origine Controllata recognition—even at places like Pete’s New Haven Style Apizza, one of the local temples of highbrow pies, or District of Pi, a new arrival from St. Louis with similarly highfalutin’ pizza ambitions.

“It’s different than a real pizza, but it’s not a negative experience,” says Jeffrey Silverman, vice president of Still Riding Pizza, a Bridgeport, Conn. company that supplies gluten-free crusts to a number of District eateries, including Ella’s, Comet Ping Pong, and Open City. Each eatery sells the crusts at an extra charge, ranging from $2 at Ella’s to $5 at Comet, above the price of a regular pizza.

Silverman’s wife, Liz, developed the recipe—a blend of bean, rice, and tapioca flours, mixed with xantham gum, egg, sugar, and cider vinegar, among other things—after she and their children were diagnosed with celiac disease. The family business now sells wheatless crusts to more than 800 restaurants nationwide. “It’s a good business,” he says.

But Silverman’s dough takes on startlingly different forms after passing through the various D.C. ovens operated by his customers. At Ella’s, it’s soggy and depressing. At Open City, though, it’s almost as crisp as the wheat-lovers’ pizza, albeit a frozen variety thereof. For best results, Silverman recommends that patrons request pies well-done; he advises restaurants to cook the crusts with sauce for a few minutes before adding cheese.

Nonetheless, in a city overrun with pie-slingers, the gluten-free niche offers a competitive advantage.

“It helps our bottom line,” says Zach Current, a partner at D.C.’s newly opened Fuel Pizza, a North Carolina-based chain that began offering gluten-free crusts two years ago. “We went from selling 50 [gluten-free pies] a week at eight cafes to selling 300 a week,” Current says.

Fuel’s gluten-free offering, made with tapioca, sorghum, amaranth, and teff, takes on a doughy, almost crepe-like texture.

Current was initially skeptical when suppliers began hawking wheatless crusts at industry trade shows. But, he says, as customers began requesting the stuff and friends began eschewing pizza altogether because of their own dietary conditions, it simply made sense. “Obviously, if it’s going to affect our business, you’re going to get a little more dialed in,” he says.

In the beginning, quality control was a big concern. Regular pizzas are made from scratch at the company’s various locations. The gluten-free crusts, however, come pre-made. “I probably tried 30 different products from around the country before finding the right one,” Current says. He won’t name his supplier for competitive reasons.

Fuel claims to go to great lengths to avoid cross-contamination with its wheat dough. Gluten-free crusts are made in a separate area; the pies are placed in the oven atop parchment paper to prevent contact with regular flour. But even those steps don’t completely eliminate risk: “If you are super-sensitive, we can’t recommend that you even come in our restaurant because there’s two pounds of flour probably just floating around,” he says.

Still, the wheat-averse have plenty of options. Even Pizzeria Paradiso, which first foisted the Neapolitan pizza fetish on Washington, is developing its own wheatless dough. “When we started out 20 years ago, we had white crust and milk cheese,” chef-owner Ruth Gresser says. “We have changed based on customer interest over the years. We now have a vegan cheese. We now have a whole wheat crust. We’ve always been a place where people could create their own meal based on their dietary restrictions. In my mind, [the gluten-free option] sort of fits with the create-your-own mentality.”

The chain recently hosted a taste-test, but hasn’t rolled out its product quite yet. “We decided that we still had a little work to do,” says Gresser, whose own recipe features a blend of brown rice, sorghum, and buckwheat flours. “For me, the buckwheat gives it a hearty, rustic, more like a whole-wheat, whole-grain flavor,” she says. Gresser hopes to launch the gluten-free option at Paradiso’s Alexandria location around mid-February.

“I feel like when my staff tastes it and says, ‘Oh, I would eat that,’ instead of ‘Yeah, it’s OK,’ that’s a good sign,” she says. “I mean, will people choose to have this crust over our regular crust? I don’t know that the non-gluten-free will do that. But I think it makes a nice pizza.” CP

Photos by Darrow Montgomery

Comet Ping Pong, 5037 Connecticut Ave. NW, (202) 364-0404

District of Pi, 910 F St. NW, (202) 393-5484

Ella’s Wood Fired Pizza, 901 F St. NW, (202) 638-3434

Fuel Pizza, 1606 K St. NW, (202) 659-3835

Open City, 2331 Calvert St. NW, (202) 332-2331

Pete’s Apizza, 1400 Irving St. NW, (202) 332-7383, and 4940 Wisconsin Ave. NW, (202) 237-7383

Pizzeria Paradiso, 3282 M St. NW, (202) 337-1245, 2003 P St. NW, (202) 223-1245, and 124 King St., Alexandria, (703) 837-1245

Eatery tips? Food pursuits? Send suggestions to hungry@washingtoncitypaper.com.

Hungry for Chinese peasant food the way they used to make it? You know, during the rule of Mao Zedong? There's a book for that. [NPR]

Iconoclastic Alamo Drafthouse aims to open in the District. [Arts Desk]

The Monocle isn’t usually open on Saturday or Sunday. But, for Restaurant Week, the closest restaurant to the Capitol building made an exception. Maybe it shouldn't have. [The Root DC]

The Inn at Little Washington in Virginia earns its 24th straight five-diamond rating from AAA, a record stint for non-suckitude. [Eater DC]

D.C.'s Bier Baron and ChurchKey retain standing among Draft magazine's 100 best beer bars. Notable local omissions: Meridian Pint, Brasserie Beck, Pizzeria Paradiso and Black Squirrel. [DCist]

Making its debut at Smoke & Barrel, DC Brau’s newest draft "Thyme After Thyme" pleases one critic much more than the food. [DC Dining]

Photo by Mr Wabu/Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license

On Monday, the Arrogant Bastard himself, Stone Brewing Company founder Greg Koch, will stop by Smith Commons and Smoke & Barrel with some of his ballsy west-coast beers. In Arlington, Rustico of Ballston starts its annual Festivus celebration, which continues with a second night of revelry at the Alexandria location on Tuesday.

Speaking of tipsy Tuesday, Meridian Pint will feature B.W. Rye #2, a rye porter that is 3 Stars Brewing Company's sequel to their collaboration with Oliver Breweries of Baltimore, along with a slew of suds from both Oliver and Evolution Craft Brewing Company of Delaware. Across the river, Mad Fox Brewing Company in Falls Church will tap a batch of Orange Whip, a wonderfully citrusy American India pale ale that will likely not last the week.

On Wednesday, ChurchKey and Smith Commons are each holding winter solstice parties. ChurchKey's will showcase Flying Dog's new Wild Dog series release, Kujo Imperial Coffee Stout on draft, on "nitro," (nitrogen gives the beer a creamier texture) and in five differently prepared casks. The party at Smith Commons features beers from Great Lakes Brewing Company of Ohio and the bar's new winter cocktail menu featuring spirits from Michigan's New Holland Brewing Company.

In another two-night affair, Smoke and Barrel will be pouring some über rare drafts from Indiana's popular Three Floyds Brewery on Wednesday. The Midwest fest continues on Thursday night at Meridian Pint with brews from several Wisconsin breweries not distributed in D.C., including sought-after New Glarus Brewing Company.

If you're still in town and looking for something to do Friday, check out Pizzeria Paradiso's new all Christmas beer draft list at the Dupont Circle location.

Send submissions for the D.C. Beer Events calendar to thelagerheads@gmail.com.

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This week offers some sudsy alternatives to your significant other's work holiday party. Take your pick of this week's dinners and special keg tappings. Click on any event in the D.C. Beer Events Calendar above for more details, or read on for a few of my picks.

Highlights of the week include a dinner featuring G. Schneider & Sohn German wheat beers like the delicious Aventinus, served with local sausages, at Pizzeria Paradiso in Georgetown and Capitol Hill eatery Acqua Al 2's beer-pairing dinner featuring artisanal brews from Italy, both on Monday. On Tuesday, ChurchKey will tap a super rare keg of Bell's Black Note, a blend of the Michigan brewery's Expedition Stout and Special Double Cream Stout that has been aged in Old Forester bourbon barrels. On Wednesday, new Atlas District hang The Big Board will host its first beer dinner featuring Ben Matz of Chocolate City Beer and his beers and a unique menu of fast food-themed dishes. On Thursday, celebrate the Fourth of July in December at Scion with a selection of Great Lakes Brewing Company offerings including the popular Christmas Ale and Blackout Stout.

Send submissions for the D.C. Beer Events calendar to thelagerheads@gmail.com.

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The geek in me has to choose the one and only book-and-beer event this week, which is tonight at ChurchKey. Joshua M. Bernstein will be in the upstairs bar from 6 to 8 p.m. promoting his new book, Brewed Awakening: Behind the Beers and Brewers Leading the World’s Craft Brewing Revolution. For the occasion, ChurchKey will feature several local brews mentioned in the book, such as Maryland's Stillwater Artisanal Ales, Flying Dog and Heavy Seas.

Non-bookworms have plenty of options for beer fun tonight and the rest of the week. Monday starts two multi-day celebrations, Pizzeria Paradiso's 20th Anniversary and a special cask week at Mad Fox in Falls Church. All events and details are in the calendar above, but other highlights include: Allagash founder Rob Tod at Jack Rose from 6 to 9 p.m. tonight, a Dogfish Head and Sam Adams dinner at Thunder Burger at 7 p.m. on Tuesday, a Williams Brothers cask night at Fire Works Pizza in Arlington on Wednesday, a Bell's Brewery draft night at Iron Horse Taproom and Prince of Petworth fifth Anniversary party at Meridian Pint on Thursday.

ChurchKey and Paradiso are doing double duty this week by hosting additional events. Tonight all three Paradiso locations will host Bruce Williams from William Brothers Brewery, producers of contemporary and historic ales from Scotland, for a progressive party. ChurchKey is holding a "crazy rare hoppy brew night" on Tuesday.

Send submissions for the D.C. Beer Events calendar to thelagerheads@gmail.com.

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You'd think for as long as I've kept my public beer calendar, local bars would try to coordinate a little better by now. But a night like tonight, with a uniquely high number of beer events, is only a problem for people like me—those so bonkers for beer that they seriously consider bellying up to a half dozen bars in the same evening.

Whether you hit just one or try to make it to all five, it's a great night to enjoy craft beer in the District. Here's a rundown of what rare brews are being poured and where.

• "The Great Chouffe" Party at Pizzeria Paradiso Dupont (5 p.m.) – Belgian brewery Brasserie d'Achouffe, easily recognized by the "chouffe," or gnome, adorning their bottles and tap handles, is the focus of this draft night. Six brews will be featured on tap, including rarities Gnomegang, a collaboration blonde ale brewed with house yeasts from both Brewery Ommegang and Achouffe, and Biere du Soleil, a 4.5 percent alcohol-by-volume pale ale. Also on draft will be La Chouffe bottle-conditioned blonde; the dark, malty Mc Chouffe Scotch ale; the hoppy Houblon Chouffe Belgian pale ale; and N’Ice Chouffe, a strong, dark winter ale spiced with with thyme and curaçao.

• "Fermentation Without Representation" Tapping at Meridian Pint (5 p.m.) – Be among the first to try this Imperial pumpkin porter brewed by DC Brau and Epic Brewing Company of Salt Lake City. Two versions, one brewed out west and another brewed here in D.C., will be available, and DC Brau's Brandon Skall and Jeff Hancock and Epic founder Dave Cole will be on hand to talk about the beer.

• Schlafly 20th Anniversary Party at ChurchKey (6 p.m.) – Twenty drafts will be flowing with Schlafly beers to celebrate the St. Louis brewing company's 20th year of business. Co-founder Dan Kopman will share several rare and interesting brews, including Optic, a unique golden ale brewed with ingredients from Auld Alliance nations Scotland and France; Hop Harvest 2011, a fresh-hopped ale brewed with delicate Sorachi Ace hops; and Citrus Witbier, a third-generation Schlafly concoction spiced with orange, lemon and grapefruit peels and coriander.

• Lost Rhino Tap Takeover at Iron Horse Taproom (6 p.m.) – Penn Quarter hang Iron Horse will host Lost Rhino Brewing Company of nearby Ashburn, Va., for an evening of local beer. Founders Matt Hagerman and Favio Garcia are likely to bring a few surprises including what's left of their Rhino'Fest fall seasonal. Previous releases like their bold Face Plant IPA (India pale ale) and easy drinking Rhino Chasers Pils or New River Pale Ale are likely to be on tap as well.

• Belgian Coffee Week Beer Dinner at Locolat Café (7 p.m.) – As part of a week-long celebration of beer's darker, roasted cousin, Locolat is putting on a six-course beer dinner featuring dishes by chefs Geert Piferoen and Niel Piferoen. Additional special guests Patrick Hanssens, owner of Goortmoeders Coffee of Belgium, and local beer sommelier Jens Piferoen will guide diners through each course. Beers include Straffe Hendrik Quadrupel and other Belgian gems. Price is $70 per person and reservations can be made at (301) 741-1512.

Send submissions for the Lagerheads' D.C. Beer Events calendar to thelagerheads@gmail.com.

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The festival kicks off tonight with a five-course apple-inspired pairing dinner with ciders, apple beers, and apple liqueurs. Featured beverages include a range from both the U.K. and U.S. including Westons Cider, Captain Lawrence Golden Delicious, AeppelTreow Kinglet Bitter cider, J.W. Lees Harvest Ale aged in a Calvados cask and the longest beer name I've ever seen: Etienne Dupont Organic Cidre Bouche Brut de Normandie.

Courses include starters like buttermilk biscuits with apple butter, an Stayman Winesap apple pork stew, and two pizzas featuring apples: one with smoked apple wood bacon, chicken, gouda and apple barbecue sauce and another with Jonagold apples, sage pesto, green onions and three cheeses. And for dessert, an apple brandy crumble with vanilla bean gelato.

The dinner is $65 per person, which includes tax and tip, and reservations can be made at events@eatyourpizza.com or 202-337-1245.

Sound good but can't make it tonight? This week a similar menu will be available as a prix-fixe option at all three locations. Don't like apples? Paradiso and several other craft beer venues around D.C. have plenty to do this week (and well into next month). Check out my D.C. Beer Events Calendar for details.

Pizzeria Paradiso's Georgetown location is at 3282 M Street NW, Washington D.C.

Photo courtesy of Pizzeria Paradiso

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Pizzeria Paradiso

Photo by PDPhoto.org

The outfit bringing Sixpoint to town is Legends Limited, a Baltimore-based craft beer importer and distributor. Its reps have done an excellent job spreading Sixpoint standard offerings like Righteous Ale, an India pale ale made with rye, and The Crisp, a well-hopped lager, as well as specialty releases such as Old Krusher barleywine and several unique one-off's from the brewery's Mad Scientist series across the city. So plan on having multiple nights out to take full advantage of the week's festivities.

Tonight, founder Shane Welch and fellow Sixpointers Terence McNicholas and Jeff Gorlechen will host a progressive launch party at Pizzeria Paradiso's Dupont Circle location from 5 to 7 p.m. and at Meridian Pint from 7 to 9 p.m. Details on these and other welcoming events below. An asterisk notes a beer that will be available exclusively at that venue during launch week.

While you're out there trying Sixpoint's wide variety of quality brews, don't forget to admire the packaging. Welch's first love was design, and it shows.

CALENDAR

Monday, September 12
- Pizzeria Paradiso Dupont (12 drafts)
- Meridian Pint (8 drafts)
- Red Derby (4 cans)

Tuesday September 13
- The Bier Baron (4 cans + 2 drafts)
- Thunder Burger (4 cans + 1 draft)

Wednesday September 14
- Scion (5 drafts & free hors d'ouvres)
- The Big Hunt (4 cans + 3 drafts)

Thursday September 15
- ChurchKey (7 drafts + 2 casks)
- Star and Shamrock (4 cans)
- D'Vines (4 drafts for growler fills)

Friday September 16
- The Black Squirrel (4 cans + 3 drafts)
- Jack Rose (4 cans + 1 draft)

Saturday, September 17
- Smith Commons (2 drafts)

EVENT DETAILS

Monday at Pizzeria Paradiso: All 12 Sixpoint drafts will be $3 a pint from 5 to 7 p.m. Founder Shane Welch and fellow Sixpointers Terence McNicholas and Jeff Gorlechen will be present.

Beer List:
*Spice of Life India Pale Ale w/ Chinook
*Bark Red Session Ale
*Little Wisco Kolsch-style Ale with flaked corn
*Growler Dark Mild Ale
*Mad Scientist #4 Hibiscus Ale
*Old Krusher Barleywine
*Brevity Belgian Wit
*Little Buzz Honey-Infused Ale
*Filling Station Belgian Pale Ale
Brownstone Signature Brown Ale
Bengali Tiger India Pale Ale
Sweet Action Cream Ale

Monday at Meridian Pint: The party, including founder Shane Welch and his crew, moves to Meridian Pint from 7 to 9 p.m. All eight drafts will be on special for half price.

Beer List:
*Mad Scientist #3 Doppel Sticke Germain-style Ale
*Spice of Life India Pale Ale w/ Cascade
*Gemini Double India Pale Ale
*Otis Nitro Stout with Flaked Oats
Crisp Lager
Bengali Tiger India Pale Ale
Sweet Action Cream Ale
Righteous Rye Ale

Tuesday at The Bier Baron: All beers will be on draft and cost $5 a pint from 6 to 8 p.m. No reservations necessary. The event will be in the upstairs bar.

Beer List:
*Autobahn West Coast Style India Pale Ale
Brownstone Signature Brown Ale
Crisp Lager
Bengali Tiger India Pale Ale
Sweet Action Cream Ale
Righteous Rye Ale

Tuesday at Thunder Burger: All beers will be on draft except for Crisp and Righteous Ale, which will be in cans. All beers will be $6 all night with a half-off special from 6 to 7 p.m. for happy hour.

Beer List:
*Bills Burger ESB (Extra Special Bitter)
Bengali Tiger India Pale Ale
Sweet Action Cream Ale
Righteous Rye Ale

Crisp Lager

Wednesday at The Big Hunt: This event features three drafts and Crisp, Bengali Tiger, Sweet Action, and Righteous in cans. All beers will be available from 5 to 8 p.m. Contact the Big Hunt for pricing details.

Beer List:
*Frankie's Pale Ale
*Spice of Life India Pale Ale with Amarillo
Mad Scientist #6 Wet-Hopped India Pale Ale
Crisp Lager
Bengali Tiger India Pale Ale
Sweet Action Cream Ale
Righteous Rye Ale

Wednesday at Scion: Scion will be pouring $4 drafts of all Sixpoint beers from 5 p.m. until close. They will also be serving complimentary hors d'oeuvres that pair with the beers.

Beer List:
*Meatball Shop Red Ale with 30% Wheat Malt
Crisp Lager
Bengali Tiger India Pale Ale
Sweet Action Cream Ale
Righteous Rye Ale

Thursday at Church Key: ChurchKey will present the first two casks of Sixpoint beer to the District and pour seven different Sixpoint drafts. The event starts at 4 p.m. and there is no admission fee. All nine beers will be priced individually in full glasses and in 4 oz. tasting pours.

Beer List:
*2 surprise casks

*Mad Scientist #5 Belgian Golden Ale infused with Shiso
*Vienna Pale Ale
El Barrio Hopped Brown Ale
Crisp Lager
Bengali Tiger India Pale Ale
Sweet Action Cream Ale
Righteous Rye Ale

Thursday at Star and Shamrock: The bar will have four Sixpoint beers available in cans all night. Call Star & Shamrock for pricing details.

Beer List:
Crisp Lager
Bengali Tiger India Pale Ale
Sweet Action Cream Ale
Righteous Rye Ale

Thursday at D'Vines: D'Vines will be pouring free samples and $8.99 growler fills from 6 to 9 p.m.

Beer List:
Mad Scientist #6 Mad Scientist #6 Wet-Hopped India Pale Ale
Bengali Tiger India Pale Ale
Sweet Action Cream Ale
Righteous Rye Ale

Friday at Jack Rose: All beers will be available starting at 6:30 p.m.. The offerings will be in cans except for Signal, which will be on draft. Contact Jack Rose for pricing info.

Beer List:
*Signal India Pale Ale with Smoked Malt (draft)
Crisp Lager
Bengali Tiger India Pale Ale
Sweet Action Cream Ale
Righteous Rye Ale

Friday at Black Squirrel: All beers will be on draft all night starting at 5 p.m. Flights will be available, as well as chef Gene Sohn's version of "Jumbo Slice"–a different slice that pairs with each of the Signal, Belgian IPA, and Catch & Brass. Members of the Six Point brewing team will be around to meet and greet.

Beer List:
*Belgian IPA
*Catch & Brass Pale Ale
El Barrio Hopped Brown Ale
Crisp Lager
Bengali Tiger India Pale Ale
Sweet Action Cream Ale
Righteous Rye Ale

Saturday at Smith Commons: This event follows the H Street Festival and runs form 7 p.m. until close. Contact Smith Commons for pricing info.

Beer List:
Oyster Stout (American Stout brewed with oyster shells)
Spice of Life India Pale Ale with Cascade

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Photo by Tammy Tuck

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