The pork-laden product at Pho 14

Salad or garden rolls, not to be confused by their deep-fried cousin, the spring roll, have always been one of my favorite Vietnamese appetizers. These gorgeous, transparent cylinders of rice paper come stuffed with a jungle of rice vermicelli, thin strips of pork, crispy lettuce, bright orange curls of shrimp, and light, refreshing leaves of mint, cilantro, and Thai basil (or some variation on the herbs). When dipped in a “peanut” sauce — which, more accurately, should be a cooked-down hoisin sauce with chopped peanuts as a garnish — garden rolls may be my definition of the perfect bite.

They’re meaty, nutty, cool, light, crunchy, fragrant, and gummy in the best way possible. Plus, you eat them with your hands, giving you the soft, tactile immediacy that’s often missing in utensil-driven food.

But the key to a great garden roll, for me at least, is balance. Each ingredient must know its place — like a worker in a Socialist production collective — and never try to dominate the others.

Lately, however, I’ve noticed that garden-roll makers at the new Vietnamese outlets in D.C. — specifically Saigon Bistro near Dupont Circle and Pho 14 in Columbia Heights — have taken to overstuffing their appetizers with pork. Far from giving you more meat for your money, this piggy indulgence merely disturbs the delicate balance of a garden roll. The dry, bland flavors of boiled (or maybe roasted) pork dominate in the most unpleasant way.

Read More “Garden Rolls Are Porking Out” »

It’s long been a truism that if you wanted good (or even decent) pho or ramen or soba soups, you had to drive to the ‘burbs, whether Falls Church or Rockville, to get your fill. But there’s been encouraging news lately for Washingtonians who want to stay closer to home for noodle soups.

Read More “The Sounds of Slurping: Get Ready for D.C. Noodle Shops” »