Posts Tagged ‘Marvelous Market’
The Hard Realities of Commercial Bread Making
Silent Treatment: Loic Feillet knows how to take criticism
Loic Feillet is, without question, one of the area’s most skilled bakers. The owner of Panorama Baking Co. in Alexandria has, over the years, sold bread to some of the finest restaurants in the District, including both CityZen and Citronelle. But when Feillet took part in the Washington City Paper’s debut baguette competition, his entry finished far down the list.
Feillet’s loaf scored only 24 out of a possible 80 points, placing it eighth among the 12 competing breads. The baker, whom I asked to join our contest as a non-voting judge, remained mum as his fellow critics sliced and diced their way through the various baguettes. Some of the judges were not kind to Feillet’s bread.
“It looks really good,” said CityZen chef Eric Ziebold. “I was surprised. It did not taste good.” On his scorecard, Ziebold awarded the baguette only 10 out of a possible 20 points. Mark Furstenberg, founder of both Marvelous Market and Breadline, scored the bread slightly higher, giving Feillet 11.5 points, but his comments were coarser than Ziebold’s.
The crust, Furstenberg noted, was “old — should be better.” As for the crumb, or the interior of the bread, the baker wrote on his scorecard that it was “dense” and “badly done.”
It was only after all the breads were sampled and all the scores tallied that Feillet finally spoke in defense of his baguette.
Furstenberg’s Street Food Restaurant Will Stretch Far Beyond Bread-Based Snacks
Believe it or not, the origins of Mark Furstenberg’s forthcoming G Street Food can be traced to a turbulent period in the mid-1990s when the master breadmaker was being forced out of the very business he started — the then-groundbreaking bakery, Marvelous Market.
“When I was failing at Marvelous Market and I was losing Marvelous Market because of my own expansion, I was invited to go on a trip to Apulia (Puglia, Italy),” says Furstenberg, who recently took part in the Washington City Paper’s debut baguette competition. “I kept seeing bread eaten on the streets in various forms.”
If that trip abroad was the first spark, then every subsequent trip that Furstenberg took, whether to Philly or to France, was just enough fuel to keep an idea smoldering in the back of the chef’s mind. Finally, after years of traveling and eating all manner of street food, Furstenberg realized he had the concept for his next restaurant. He thought: “It would be so much fun to do street food in Washington… We don’t have real street here.”
Read More “Furstenberg’s Street Food Restaurant Will Stretch Far Beyond Bread-Based Snacks” »
Spot Check: Marvelous Market on Dupont Circle
Note: In preparation for Young & Hungry’s baguette column next week (not this week, as previously reported here), we stopped at Marvelous Market, originally founded in 1990 by Mark Furstenberg, to see how the local institution is faring so many years after Furstenberg was essentially forced to sell his much-beloved bakeries.
The heavy wooden beams and exposed red brick at the Marvelous Market on Dupont Circle give the place the kind of warm, rustic vibe that you want from your neighborhood bakery. The spell, however, is broken the moment you open your mouth and ask one basic question: Do you bake your own breads?
Marvelous doesn’t. It gets daily deliveries from Baguette Republic, which is co-owned by Dahmane Benabane, who worked as executive chef for Marvelous Market for 15 years. The Republic plies this shop — and every other in the Marvelous chain — with all manner of product, from pastries to muffins to loaves of various shape and size. Many of them, despite their transit from Northern Virginia, are fresh and delicious.
What’s the Best Baguette in Town?
A number of experts spent part of the day at the City Paper offices this afternoon to figure that out. Y&H invited two of the heaviest hitters in the local bread-making business to turn a critical eye — and palate — on our area’s baguettes: Mark Furstenberg, the founder of both Marvelous Market and Breadline, and fellow baker, Loic Feillet, owner of Panorama Baking Co. in Alexandria.
To round out the panel, we also invited Eric Ziebold, chef at this year’s Best Restaurant, and esteemed cookbook author Joan Nathan. We even asked City Paper’s resident baker, Jule Banville (also known as our assistant managing editor), to provide more of the lay-editor’s perspective.
We’ll report our findings next week in Young & Hungry, but in the meantime, let’s jump start the debate: What do you consider the best baguette in town?
More pictures from today’s competition below the fold, courtesy of staff shooter, Darrow Montgomery.
