Any guesses which ones? The guy has already been to Ben's Chili Bowl, Five Guys, Ray's Hell Burger, Ted's Bulletin, Restaurant Eve, Good Stuff Eatery, 1789 and Equinox, among other places.

Photo by Фото пресс-службы Президента России/Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported License

Details are thin at this point, but ARLnow notes that "Bayou Bakery just applied for a license to serve wine and beer. The form describes the restaurant of having a seating capacity between 1 and 100, which doesn’t really narrow it down much."

When I spoke with Guas last year, not long after his planned partnership with the Liberty Tavern team fell apart, he suggested that Bayou Bakery would combine both sweet and savory foods. "The lunch menu is letting me play around with fun sandwiches that I grew up eating," the New Orleans native told me. "It saves me some money on plane tickets to go back home to Louisiana."

Y&H is imagining muffalettas, po' boys, beignets, buttermilk drops, eclairs, and cafe au lait. This place cannot open fast enough.

On paper, Northside Social makes about as much sense as a drive-through steakhouse. A coffee shop, a wine bar and a gourmet pastry/sandwich shop? Right. After 5 p.m., the communal table upstairs and its smattering of surrounding two-tops becomes a full-service wine bar under sommelier Alison Christ’s smart and unassuming direction. Believe me, her internationally focused wine list can stand up to scrutiny from even the snobbiest of air-pinkie drinkers. Downstairs the atmosphere is decidedly more studious, despite a loud overhead soundtrack seemingly designed to pull the laptop nation back into the real world. On either level, you can order from chef Liam LaCivita’s sandwich-and-charcuterie-heavy menu. Whatever you order, your meal will likely be served on or alongside baker G. David King’s house-made breads. If this sounds like an excess of riches, it almost is. Almost.

3211 Wilson Blvd., Arlington (703) 465-0145

Photo by Darrow Montgomery

The Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington hosts the annual RAMMY Awards on Sunday at the Marriott Wardman Park, and the question foremost on Y&H's mind is this: How will Inox's recent closing affect the ceremony, if at all?

If you haven't heard, the celebrated, triple-chef-threat Inox closed this weekend. Chef Jon Mathieson shared the bad news with WaPo's Tom Sietsema late on Friday night.

Inox, as I'm sure many of you know, is nominated in the New Restaurant of the Year category, along with Bibiana, Birch & Barley, Bourbon Steak, and Eventide. Mathieson himself is also nominated in the Rising Culinary Star of the Year category, along with chefs Mike Isabella from Zaytinya, Shannon Overmiller from The Majestic, Liam LaCivita from Liberty Tavern, and Nicholas Stefanelli from Bibiana.

"This is the first time that this has happened in recent memory," e-mailed Lynne Breaux, president of RAMW. She was referring to nominees who are no longer in business.

I had so many questions running around my head, I didn't know where to begin. Would Inox and Mathieson still compete in their categories? Would the RAMMYs officially acknowledge the restaurant's demise on stage? Would the winners in those two categories (assuming Inox and Mathieson can compete and assuming they don't win) feel like these were hollow victories now that Inox and Mathieson are not currently on the scene? (I was imagining how, say, Robert Downey Jr. would have felt had he won the Best Supporting Actor Oscar in 2009 over the late Heath Ledger.)

Well, Breaux clarified my thinking with two quick acknowledgments:  Inox and Mathieson can indeed still win the awards in their respective categories, and the voting is already tabulated.

Inox, in other words, may be the first restaurant to win an award after it has already closed. And Mathieson may be the first chef to win the Rising Culinary Star award and not be currently employed.  How much would that suck?

Restaurateur Ashok Bajaj, owner of the nominated Bibiana, acknowledged the difficulty of the situation. But he adds: "I think every restaurant that is nominated is a good restaurant...We're all superior in our own ways. Whoever wins would be good."

Photo courtesy of Inox

Note: We're publishing the entire Young & Hungry column on the blog so you can enjoy Darrow Montgomery's photography, which has its own story to tell.

In the land of the over-stimulated mermaid, the landscape is always the same: the tiny tables crowded with laptap squatters, lost in their ear buds and their private worlds, and the fresh-brewed coffee and eye-candy pastries. You’ll find a similar wireless, caffeine-and-sugar fueled culture at Northside Social — until, that is, your eyes start to focus in on the finer details. Like the in-house sommelier. Or the chef-driven sandwiches. Or the house-made charcuterie.

Northside Social is Starbucks with a culinary degree. It’s Starbucks with a drinking problem. It is Starbucks with a palate.

It is, in other words, nothing like Starbucks at all — except perhaps for the fact that the Northside owners had hoped to build a Clarendon replacement for their beloved Murky Coffee, which closed last year when the hapless Nick Cho suffered yet another insult. His new landlord raised the rent beyond his means. Goodbye Murky. Hello historic building for rent.

Stephen Fedorchak and his business partners had spent many an hour building a vision—and a staff—for their Liberty Tavern over cups of coffee at Murky. They were determined to continue the gourmet bean tradition set by Cho — but with their own twist: They’d introduce a menu worthy of their nearby Liberty, where chef Liam LaCivita combines American and Italian influences with his own seasonal sensibilities to redefine neighborhood eating in Clarendon. Well, hold on. I guess I should say the owners were determined to continue the gourmet coffee tradition once they realized their first option, the southern-minded Bayou Bakery with pastry chef David Guas, wasn’t going to work out (which is another story for another day).

And yet, once they set a revised, Guas-less course, the owners never realized how far their new direction would take them. Northside’s ambitions grew exponentially with each piece of the puzzle the principals snapped into place. They lured sommelier Alison Christ away from Willow. They hired a pastry chef Rob Valencia from New York City. They found a way to double up the duties of LaCivita and Liberty baker, G. David King, without overwhelming their prized culinary team.

Before they knew it, Fedorchak and his partners had created the damnedest little coffee shop you’ve ever seen. It’s a place where you can get a hand-pour of single-origin coffee, a glass of Rosso di Montalcino from Tuscany, a pork belly sandwich on house-made Italian feather loaf, or a trio of miniature cupcakes almost too cute to eat. It’s a community space, renovated farmhouse-style, for those who don’t mind mixing their depressants with their stimulants — or grilled cheese with smoked salmon rillettes.

Northside’s multiple-personality is most apparent in the evening, after 5 p.m., when the communal table upstairs and a smattering of surrounding two-tops becomes a full-service wine bar, under Christ’s smart and unassuming direction. Her internationally focused wine list can stand up to scrutiny from even the snobbiest of air-pinkie drinkers; its priciest labels, a Stags Leap cab or a Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape, are relegated to the half-bottle section where the sticker shock is less cardiac-inducing.

The contrast between the two floors can be striking during evening hours. Downstairs, the music is loud enough to be felt a floor above and yet the vibe at ground level remains subdued, the vast majority of customers still tethered to their laptops or buried deep within the binding of their books (remember those?). Meanwhile, upstairs there’s nary a note of artificial sound. The soundtrack is provided exclusively by the drinkers, whose own volume can increase as the night wears on.

It’s all too easy, as you knock back one glass after another, to forget to use your indoor voice at the wine bar. Christ suggested the half bottle of Anton Bauer Grüner Veltliner, a once trendy white grape from Austria, to pair with our three-cheese plate; out of fashion or not, that reserve Grüner’s tart, acidic, somewhat spicy quality was the perfect palate cleanser between bites of runny and ripe Bonne Bouche goat, semi-firm truffled Sotto Cenere from Italy, and our fresh triple-milk La Tur from Piedmont. If only the Grüner could have scrubbed away the memory of the house-made cotechino sausage, that Northern Italian staple typically served for good luck during New Year’s. The sweet, cinnamon-laced pork link had only one flaw, but it was fatal—chewy, almost cartilage-like bits buried within the casing. It was likely undercooked pieces of pork skin.

The misses, fortunately, are few, whether upstairs or down. The grilled cheese is all about the crunch of the buttery country loaf, given how the mozzarella, gruyere, and cheddar inexplicably fade into nothingness, as if someone in the kitchen forgot to add the cheddar. The smoked salmon rillettes is rich and creamy enough without the thick layer of butter that seals the silky spread into its jam jar. Even when the kitchen makes a technical mistake or makes an unannounced substitution, the dish often remains strong enough to compensate. I’m thinking specifically of LaCivita’s sensational dried Alsatian-style sausage, these meaty and caraway-studded ovals that, when dipped ever so slightly in spicy mustard, don’t need any bread to accompany them. Which is fortunate, because for my order, the kitchen laid out slices of soft and spongy white bread instead of the advertised marble rye.

The kitchen also displays a heavy hand on the panini press, often scorching its breads black, but the char never seems to mar the sandwiches. In fact, I couldn’t even taste the burn marks on my Westphalian ham sandwich, this complex bite stuffed with gruyere and sauerkraut, its textures and flavors so plentiful your brain isn’t sure which pleasure to focus on. I wolfed through similar scorch marks on my crisped pork belly sandwich, whose salsa verde, smoky mozzarella, and olive oil provided plenty of moisture to balance out the dry bread.

I must admit that I’ve taken advantage of Northside’s alcoholic charms far more than its caffeinated ones, which does a disservice to Marianne Tolosa’s considerable Counter Culture coffee program, a sort of carryover from her days as general manager at Murky. This is a function of the simple fact that Northside is located far from my Takoma Park home; reaching Clarendon during the caffeine hour runs counter to my usual morning ritual of feeding a different beast: the paper’s blog. Still, I’ve stopped in for a mug of sweet and cirtrusy Kiryama from Burundi, which the Northside crew hand-pours at the counter. If you’re appetite runs large in the a.m., I’d suggest pairing that Joe with a bacon-and-egg sandwich on thin, crunchy feather loaf. The bacon’s so smoky it’s like that first cigarette you used to suck on in the morning. Or try Valencia’s moist and crumbly coffee cake — in muffin form.

For chrissake, now I realize I’ve essentially overlooked Valencia’s work, too, even though I’ve sampled a number of his cookies, brownies, and cupcakes. My favorite has to be his thick pistachio-studded brownie, a treat whose rich chocolate is cut with a lingering, tongue-tickling blast of ancho powder. This must be the unintentional consequence of creating a new-style coffee shop: No one can catalog its many charms in one review, just as no one can grasp its multiple personalities in one visit.

Northside Social, 3211 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, (703) 465-0145

The first thing I noticed about Northside Social — well, aside from all the customers flocking to the new coffee shop/wine bar in Arlington— was the light. The two-story operation, housed in the former Murky Coffee space, is bathed in warm natural sunlight, as inviting as anything on the menu from the folks who also dish it out at the respected Liberty Tavern.

Sunlight, I'm beginning to suspect, has its own umami effect, brightening everything it touches, including the flavor of food.

Not that chef Liam LaCivita's crisped pork belly sandwich needs any enhancement. The bite, a steal at $7, is like dense matter, a sandwich so concentrated in flavor your palate may not know where to turn.

The spiced pork belly comes served between slices of Italian feather loaf, which, as you can see from this crummy cell-phone snap, spent a little too much time around a heat source. I was somewhat alarmed by the burn marks, figuring it will have dried the bread out completely.

It hadn't, thanks mostly to the generous amounts of moisture supplied on the interior of the sandwich. LaCivita slathers his creation with a heat-seeking salsa verde, smoked mozzarella, and, most brilliantly, a generous pour of Olio Santo, which acts as a sort of drill sargeant, bringing organization and structure to a sandwich that combines spice, bitterness (from broccoli rabe), richness, and smokiness.  I can't wait to try the sandwich when the bread isn't burnt.

We also ordered the chicken salad sandwich with pistachios, greens, and green goddess dressing, which was served on (if memory serves) oatmeal wheat bread. It delivered unexpected pleasures. Chicken was not the dominant flavor; the center of this sandwich was concentrated around these bright, creamy, and fresh green flavors, a balance of acid and herbs and dressing. The real surprise, for me, was how well this herbal garden paired with the oatmeal-studded bread. It's as ticklish and unexpected as I imagine Mark Bittman's oatmeal with celery is.

I need to add these two sandwiches to the working list. I also need to make a lot more visits to Northside Social, where sandwiches are just one of many apparent treats.

Y&H has already listed his 10 favorite new restaurants for 2009. Now it's time to start pondering the possibilities for 2010. Here's a short list of the upcoming restaurants I'm itching to dine in this year.

• Galileo III: Can Roberto Donna overcome his dwindling reputation and poor recent track record to reclaim the heavyweight crown in the former Butterfield 9 space?

• Estadio: Proof owner Mark Kuller will be opening this Spanish-themed restaurant on the trendy 14th Street strip (which really needs a trendy name, like Dealertown 14, a nod to 14th Street's history as a home to car dealerships).
• Flip Burger Boutique: The name exudes all the preciousness of a designer poodle, but its concept intrigues me. So does its mohawked toque. (Come to think of it, his hair remains me more of a shark fin.)
• Capital City Diner: The poor owners of this historic 1940s-era dining car have suffered so many setbacks in trying to open in the eats-deprived Trinidad neighborhood that I suspect running a restaurant will seem like a snap by comparison.
• Ray's the Steaks at East River: Speaking of serving under-served neighborhoods, Michael Landrum will be opening a more family-oriented version of his flagship operation in Northeast D.C.
• Kushi: Grilled meats on one side of the restaurant, fresh fish on the other. This kushiyaki and sushi operation at CityVista may redefine Japanese restaurants in D.C.
• Biergarten Haus: D.C. will finally get a German beer garden of its own, right there in the Atlas District, where you can already down some of the best Belgian brews in town. Do I smell a beer fight?
• Diamond District Seafood Co.: This combination seafood restaurant and market near Logan Circle should allow chef Barton Seaver to do what he's best at: prepare and promote sustainable seafood.
• Lyon Hall: The team behind Liberty Tavern in Clarendon plans to open a hip brasserie, complete with subway tiles and herringbone pattern flooring, in an historic building on Washington Boulevard in the same neighborhood.
• Hill Country: The joint that proved good Texas barbecue could be produced in the heart of New York City will attempt to recreate the magic in D.C.

So what upcoming restaurants are you jonsing for this year?

One by one, we’re running through the 50 restaurants that made the cut on this year’s Young & Hungry Dining Guide. If you have visited the day’s featured restaurant, let us know what you think. If you’re planning to visit for the first time, tell us about your meal when you return.

Concept is a word that gets thrown around a lot in the restaurant world. I’m not convinced it means squat to the average diner, but without a solid concept, or operating philosophy, a restaurant would remain rudderless, adrift to shift from idea to idea as desperation and past-due bills become a routine part of daily business. Liberty Tavern has one of the tightest concepts I’ve ever seen. It’s regional American as filtered through chef Liam LaCivita’s Italian prism. The concept plays out up and down the menu, from the superb bread basket (which combines New England anadama with Italian feather loaf) to terrific wood-fired pizzas (including one with Vermont white cheddar) to the homemade fettucine with Maine lobster. This guiding philosophy can even be felt in the very space, erected a century ago as a Masonic building, which gives off the friendly neighborhood vibe of a classic Italian trattoria.

 Liberty Tavern, 3195 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, (703) 465-9360

• The Taste of Wheaton on Sunday is a great opportunity to sample some of the best ethnic eats in the D.C. region. This year, the festival will not only feature bites from a few of Y&H's favorite restaurants — like Nava Thai and Max's Kosher Cafe — but also an Ethnic Food and Wine Tasting Pavilion boasting dishes from Latin America, Asia, and Europe. Carla Hall, the near-miss Top Chef whose catering company is located in Wheaton, will also be on hand for the event.
• That same day, you can also wander over to Taste of Arlington. While the city doesn't have a culinary identity as distinctive as Wheaton's, Arlington has enjoyed a higher profile lately, thanks to such additions as Liberty Tavern and Eventide, which have gone a long way to rinsing out the chalky aftertaste of those big-box chain restaurants that dominate Clarendon. Sadly, Eventide doesn't look to be a player in this year's event, but there are plenty of other tasty options, including Jackson's Roasting and Carving Co., Yaku, Cafe Pizzaiolo, and Me Jana.

More festival news after the jump.

• The Fiesta Asia Street Fair — call me crazy, but doesn't that name strike you as a multi-culti mess? — takes place on Saturday on Pennsylvania Avenue between 3rd and 6th streets NW. The day-long event will feature cooking demos, ranging from Cambodian to Vietnamese cuisines.
• Finally, there's the Saint Sophia Greek Festival all weekend long at the Greek Orthodox cathedral at 36th Street and Massachusetts Avenue NW. I have just five words to share with you: whole lambs roasted on spits!

According to the New York Times, Americans seem to be coping with the economic downturn by gobbling down obscene amounts of Necco Wafers and other sugary treats. I read this piece with great interest, since my own candy intake appears to be rising. 'Course, I blamed it on blogging, which is probably worse on your health (and the environment) than red meat.

Reports the Times:

The recession seems to have a sweet tooth. As unemployment has risen and 401(k)’s have shrunk, Americans, particularly adults, have been consuming growing volumes of candy, from Mary Janes and Tootsie Rolls to Gummy Bears and cheap chocolates, say candy makers, store owners and industry experts.

Theories vary on exactly why. For many, sugar lifts spirits dragged low by the languishing economy. For others, candy also provides a nostalgic reminder of better times. And not insignificantly, it is relatively cheap.

Given this information, Y&H wonders if other restaurants will follow the lead of Liberty Tavern and replace their brunch dessert bars with candy ones.