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Some of you may already know about my dislike for the standard roast turkey, an often juice-less and/or gamey bite of bird that requires a small vat of gravy to make it palatable. Unless that turkey comes smoked, brined, deep-fried, or Judy-fied, I’ll take a roasted lamb over a roasted turkey any day, particularly the holi-days.

I say that as prelude to this: I don’t feel a ton of sympathy for vegetarians during the turkey-heavy holidays. Frankly, they’re not missing much, particularly if their families produced the same dried-out birds mine did over the years. My gaze becomes much more sympathetic, however, when I think about gravy, that savory soup of pan-drippings, thickener, seasonings, and, if you’re lucky, giblets. How you can eat mashed potatoes without that brown gold is beyond my limited imagination.

Read More “Veg Day on Y&H: How to Make a Good Vegetarian Gravy” »

Los Angeles Times food writer Russ Parsons resurrects, possibly, the only recipe for roast turkey that could make me gush over the overrated Thanksgiving Day staple. This three-day salt-brining recipe, based on a chicken-cooking technique by Judy Rodgers, chef and owner at San Francisco’s Zuni Cafe, first turned heads two years ago when the Times debuted it.

Read More “L.A. Times Revisits the ‘Judy Bird’” »