Cruller Intentions
Fabio Trabocchi has long impressed critics through his innovative cooking—smoking meats and fish over smoldering thatches of hay, for instance, or infusing his lasagna with offal. But at Fiola, Trabocchi’s latest Italian eatery in Penn Quarter, nothing impressed me more than the simple bombolini: golf-ball-sized puffy pillows of aromatic freshly fried dough, stuffed with ricotta [...]






