Author Archive for Nevin Martell

Wi-Fried

On a recent Wednesday afternoon, a stream of customers flows into Peregrine Espresso on 14th Street NW. Almost no one stays very long, since nearly all of the dozen seats are filled. Two twentysomething guys in faded T-shirts and jeans casually chat at one of the tables, while a woman with frizzy gray hair intently [...]

Just Eat It

“If you want to buy a Happy Meal with a horsemeat burger, a can of Four Loko, trans fat fried foie gras, and a side of shark fin soup, I applaud your right to make those choices,” says Baylen Linnekin as we sit on his porch in North Bethesda. The 39-year-old executive director of the [...]

Lactose Intolerant

The SUV glides to a halt in front of the buttery white brick Capitol Hill row house. Liz Reitzig gets out and quickly makes her way across the street. There’s a lone woman in front of the two-story structure, arms crossed over her chest. Reitzig talks to her for a moment, then walks through a [...]

Tourist Traipse: D.C. Culinary Walking Tours

On a blustery January Saturday afternoon, six gastronomes on an epicurean guided tour of D.C. file into what they’re supposed to believe is a quintessential Washingtonian destination: Dean & Deluca. After an afternoon of eating their way across Georgetown, the group is scheduled for wine and cheese at the M Street NW specialty grocer, plus [...]

Whole Hog

The table at Dupont Circle’s Eola is covered in small appetizers that seem innocuous—tortellini, chicken fried steak, tempura fries. But take a second glance. All three dishes are made from parts of a pig’s head: The pasta is filled with brain. The golden, deep fried tempura batter hides slivers of ear. And the “steak” is [...]