Young and Hungry

The ’Wiching Hour: Ma’s Meatloaf at Lunchbox

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The Sandwich: Ma’s Meatloaf

Where: Lunchbox, 5335 Wisconsin Ave. NW

Price: $11

Bread: Chive biscuit

Stuffings: Meatloaf, pineapple ketchup, red onion marmalade, blue cheese

Thickness: 4 inches

Pros: Building a seemingly messy sandwich on a biscuit takes guts, and Lunchbox deserves props for creating a pastry that’s fluffy yet durable, with just the right amount of crunch on the corners. The meatloaf—salty, rich, flecked with bits of onion—tastes nothing like the gloppy mystery meat served in high-school cafeterias. And though the condiments disappear into the super absorbent biscuit, the tangy marmalade brightens every bite.

Cons: The ketchup and marmalade are definitely the most intriguing parts of this sandwich, so when you take a bite, you’re left wanting more. An extra slather of the sweet and sour sauces would help balance the buttery biscuit and beefy slices of meatloaf. Also, don’t be surprised if those heavy ingredients quickly lead to a stomach ache.

Sloppiness level (1 to 5): 2. The meatloaf and sauces drip less than you’d expect, so the mess is surprisingly minimal. But as sturdy as this biscuit appears, the corners do crumble, leaving you with a skewed ratio of meat to bread.

Overall score (1 to 5): 4. If you like meatloaf and biscuits, this sandwich is an easy pleaser. But to make it a real showstopper, I wish Lunchbox would load up on the condiments. After all, what’s a meatloaf without sauce?

Photo by Caroline Jones

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