The ’Wiching Hour: Bub and Pop’s Beef Brisket
The Sandwich: Pop’s Beef Brisket
Where: Bub and Pop’s, 1815 M St. NW
Price: $8 for a half, $13 for a whole
Bread: White hoagie roll
Stuffings: Beef brisket, apple-horseradish cream, five-year aged Gouda, veal jus
Thickness: 4 inches
Pros: The piles of paper-thin brisket burst with slow-roasted flavor. It’s rich, but it won’t leave you entirely bloated. The veal jus amps up the beefiness, while the apple-horseradish cream, though buried in the crevice of the roll, offers a zippy sweetness that makes an otherwise drippy sandwich crisper and slightly less salty.
Cons: The distribution of the horseradish cream yields uneven bites. After devouring the meat, you’re left with a sliver of bread covered in a sauce that’s a bit too tart to enjoy on its own. And the crumbly texture of aged Gouda doesn’t meld well with the chewy beef, even if it does add a nice nutty taste.
Sloppiness level (1 to 5): 4. Blame the jus. With carryout, the meat juice drenches the roll, turning the top of the sandwich into a congealed, soggy glob of meat and bread. This dish is best for dining in, not toting back to the office.
Overall score (1 to 5): 3. The brisket goes down smooth. But the off-kilter layout and messy presentation distract you from the sandwich’s better qualities. Next time, grab a seat at Bub and Pop’s and don’t wait to eat.
Photo by Caroline Jones