Young and Hungry

The ’Wiching Hour: Red Apron Butcher’s Sunday Supper

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The Sandwich: The Sunday Supper

Where: Red Apron Butcher, 709 D St. NW.

Price: $10

Bread: White baguette

Stuffings: Pot roast, horseradish mashed potatoes, beet horseradish slaw, Duke’s mayonnaise

Thickness: 3 inches

Pros: Rich bites of tender pot roast anchor the sandwich and somehow stay in sliced form before dissolving in your mouth. But it’s the buttery potatoes and tangy beet slaw, both aided by the biting horseradish, that elevate this from standard slow-cooker fare to something much more enticing. When combined with mayo, the ingredients form a shocking, Pepto-Bismol-colored sauce that thankfully tastes much better than medicine.

Cons: The baguette, which isn’t bad on its own, overwhelms the rest of the ingredients with its excessive chewiness and obliterates the melt-in-your-mouth pot roast. It’s so pillowy that it dulls the filling slightly. A slightly thinner bread would fix that while still holding the meat and potatoes snugly in place.

Sloppiness level (1 to 5): 2.5. Because it’s relatively dense, the bread contains the majority of the ingredients. But beet juice cannot be tamed, so expect magenta liquid to cover your eating surface, along with a few errant potato pieces.

Overall score (1 to 5): 4. If you can’t make it home for a comfort food meal, the Sunday Supper is a more than sufficient substitute. Sure, it’s a bit heavy on the bread, but the other elements will warm your stomach and your spirit.

Photo by Caroline Jones

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