A Pizza for All Seasons at Radius
I want my pizza large and thin. Not too limp, not too crispy. I'm of the New York/New Jersey tradition. I want a cheese slice. Simple.
So it surprised me when I couldn't resist the seasonal pies of Mount Pleasant's Radius.
Last winter, I praised and praised and praised the brilliance of pureeing celery root for a saucy pizza base, and then topping it with parsnips, pine nuts, and feta. After a pummeling winter, diners were rewarded with spring peas and fontina when the weather broke. This summer, I dined on the more obvious, orange heirloom tomato slices atop my pie.
It's fall now and time for another change. This week, Radius chef Todd Wiss, formerly of Black's and Poste Moderne Brasserie, offered heirloom kabocha squash puree, laced with caramelized onions and mushrooms, and enhanced with feta and ricotta.
The completed taste tilts sweet, but only enough to be superbly enhanced by a sprinkling of red pepper flakes.