Beerspotter: Bell’s Oarsman Ale
Price: $10 per six-pack
Acid Reflex: Oarsman Ale is a Berliner weisse, the bright wheat beer that’s just starting to tiptoe into the U.S. market. A food-loving beer, Berliner weisse boasts a lemony acidity that you can practically whip into a vinaigrette, and it even comes with an added bonus: its needling carbonation will scrub your palate clean of a rich Bolognese or a fatty duck confit. Not that you need to pair this bottle with anything; its addictive sourdough tang and low alcohol (just 4 percent abv) makes it my new favorite to drink on its own.
Orange You Ready for Change? For all my ranting about mass-market wheat beers, Blue Moon drinkers (unlike those who knock back, say, Bud Light), have the right idea: They seek flavor, not just a seltzer to get drunk on. Berliner weisse is more aggressively tart than most wheat beers and, as such, will take you outside your comfort zone. This may, of course, have its own benefits: You can tell the bartender to save those month-old orange slices for the compost heap.