Young and Hungry

The $2.50 ‘Chris Rock’ Rib at Branded ’72

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This weekend, I stopped by Branded '72 at the urging of co-owner Mark Johnson, the son-in-law of  founder, Ken O'Brien Sr., whose Rockville smokehouse bore his name for decades until the newcomers rebranded it last year. More on my meal in just a second.

But before I ordered a thing at Branded '72, I noticed the 'cue joint was selling a single "Chris Rock" rib for $2.50. (See the bottom of the middle column on the menu.) I asked the meat carver behind the counter what the story was. He looked as perplexed as I was. Only when I got home did Carrie turn up this video:

Looks like inflation has bumped the price of that lone rib from 50 cents to $2.50.

Personally, I'd skip the rib(s) altogether, at least if you're looking for Texas-style spare ribs. Branded's third-rack is fall-off-the-bone moist, which might play in some circles, but not in Texas where you want a little chew left on those bones. The ribs also rely too heavily on sauce instead of smoke, time, and a thick coating of seasonings.

But I think Johnson and his team are headed in the right direction with their brisket, which they now smoke with the deckle on. This rich, fatty section of the brisket helps keep the flesh moist during its long stay in the smoker.  Even better, the Branded team is wrapping its briskets warm, deckle still attached, before throwing them in the holding unit. The fatty sections are then trimmed to order. This technique prevents the brisket from drying out in the holding unit.

Branded's brisket is certainly moister than the first time I tried it. It also has a deeper level of smoke. But the brisket doesn't boast a ton of bark, the result, I presume, of smoking with the deckle on, and without a good crusty coating of seasonings, the meat is rather one dimensional. I'm also not a fan of Branded's chopped-up approach to serving brisket. I prefer those thin strips of perfumed beef, which I can leisurely drop into my mouth like long strands of pasta. Meat pasta, that is.

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  • Lou

    I too thought their brisket was pretty good - much better than Urbans reheated-on-the-griddle version.

  • Tim Carman

    Lou,

    Have you tried Urban's brisket since they started producing it daily? Instead of holding over briskets from the previous day and reheating them?

    -Tim

  • http://www.branded72.com Matt Polster

    Tim,
    Thanks for coming by the restaurant! Two quick things: 1) we do offer the Texas spare ribs (the meaty ones with some chew on the bone!) as well as baby backs. 2) The brisket comes either sliced (strands of meat pasta!) or chopped - your choice.

  • Tim Carman

    Matt,

    I swear I did order the Texas spare ribs, but maybe I got the wrong ones? They didn't seem Texas-style to me.

    And next time, I'll make sure to request the brisket sliced, not chopped. I didn't make any request this time around, since I just assumed it would be served sliced unless otherwise indicated. Is chopped the default for your brisket?

    -Tim

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