Chateau d’Esclans: The Best Rosé in the World?
Instead of doing my usual thing — picking through every rack at Calvert Woodley, wasting an hour looking for my bottle — I decided to buttonhole a floor clerk to help me find Domaines Ott's 2007 vintage of Côtes de Provence rosé. Citronelle sommelier Kathryn Morgan introduced me to this wine during a recent press dinner; I told Pepi Almodovar, the personable wine guru at Calvert, that it was the best rosé I've ever had.
He harrumphed a dismissive harrumph.
Almodovar then directed me to a 2007 bottle of Château d'Esclans rosé, which he pronounced the best in the world. At $39.99 a bottle, I thought, it better be at least a Top 10 player.
Then Almodovar told me that Calvert was the only wine store in the country to carry Château d'Esclans rosé, which pretty much meant I had to buy it now. I mean, the combination of exclusivity, expensive price, and excessive praise presses more of my buttons than Rachael Ray on Iron Chef.
Whether I loved it or hated it, I knew I had a good story to tell.
It's almost a shame that I loved the bottle as much as I did. I popped the cork on this rosé, a combination of grenache and rolle, on Saturday night at a friend's dinner party. In the glass, the wine practically refracted light like a diamond. Its color was pale pink, almost quartz-like in its understated intensity.
The rosé was dry, but not too dry. Its light strawberry sweetness didn't overwhelm the palate. Not that the fruit stood a chance against the wine's other characteristics, such as its slight chalkiness and mineral flavors, not to mention its somewhat spicy finish. This was a rosé you could drink all night — and never stop discovering something new on your tongue. My bottle of d'Esclans was so vibrant, in fact, that it stood up to the stuffed brisket that my friend served for dinner. Have you ever heard of such a thing?
I have to give it to Pepi. This rosé is superior to Domaines Ott's. But is it the best in the world? You got me. I still have a few more to try.
6:53 pm
You're obviously not old enough to remember Paul Masson Vineyards' Crackling Rosé.
7:49 pm
Tim,
I've tasted a few contenders recently. including one from Corey Creek Vineyards on the North Fork of Long Island. Not easy to get (especially if you live in Maryland) but worth seeking out.
11:18 am
You should try the rose wines from Chateau Simone. Hard to find in America but a stunning and complex rose worth a hunt. Easily better than Ott which I find overrated for the price....
2:02 pm
Chateau Simone is awesome.
12:27 pm
The syrah rose from Wattle Creek that I've had at Enology is AMAZING!
10:16 am
I've yet to find one wine store that is consistent in the DC area, so I shop around. For a C&W merchant to say that they are the only ones with Desclans is typical of the arrogance of local sellers. I drank four of Desclans's 2007 rosés with Debbie Marlowe of http://www.thewineshopofcharleston.com LAST YEAR. And the 2008 rosés are some of the best I've ever had, and having lived in the hot and humid south most of my life, I know from rosés. Lots out there, and better (in my opinion), for a lot less money. Don't get me wrong, I love Desclans and Tempier and Ott, but there are other brilliant winemakers in Provence. Mordorée and Dom de la Courtade come to mind.
9:04 am
Esclans is definitely the best Rosé in the world.
Simone is interesting and a superb red/rosé/white, Ott is fine enough in Rosé, but nothing to compare.
I live in Provence and try a lot of these all year long, although I am not a wine expert at all.
There are several high end wine makers here, none of these compare to Esclans.
All the Rosé wines of Esclans are structured and surprising. You don't get the taste you expect ( a bit like a Petrus ) from a Rosé.
Pretty much addictive, if you have never tried it don't as it will change your point of view on Rosé and you will never come back.