Young and Hungry

Brew In Town: Left Hand Milk Stout Nitro

brew-in-town_43Left Hand Milk Stout Nitro

Where in Town: Magruder’s, 5626 Connecticut Ave. NW

Price: $12.49 for a six-pack

Game On

I’ve spent a lot of time playing arcade racing games, so when I saw my first beer “on nitro,” I thought it would be more intense like a nitro-supercharged engine. Just the opposite. Without going into the chemical physics of solubility and gas diffusion, let’s just say that nitrogen has a silkifying effect on beer. Nitrogenated brews, as opposed to carbonated ones, have a softer mouthfeel, taste less acidic, and boast a creamier, more stable head. Beermakers in the British Isles have been using nitrogen for almost 100 years and started putting it in six-packs via plastic gas-filled “widgets” in the 1980s (like the ball in a can of Guinness). In a feat of science, Colorado’s Left Hand Brewing has figured out how to bottle with nitrogen without a widget. Beer magic! Read more Brew In Town: Left Hand Milk Stout Nitro

Fall Additions

The fall restaurant opening onslaught has begun, with spots popping up from Navy Yard to Georgetown to North Capitol Street this October. Whether you’re looking for ribs or rye whiskey cocktails with fancy ice, here’s the abbreviated guide to D.C.’s newest places to eat and drink.


Chez Billy in Petworth + fish soup + white tablecloths – a taxidermied goose + people who wear ties = Chez Billy Sud (1039 31st St. NW) Read more Fall Additions

Are You Gonna Eat That? The Partisan’s Heartechino

gonna-eat-that_42The Dish: Heartechino

Where to Get It: The Partisan, 709 D St. NW; (202) 524-5322;

Price: $4

What It Is: A combination of pig heart, rendered skin, and diced lardo. The house-made terrine is spiced with Thai chilies, coriander, mace, and cinnamon.

What It Tastes Like: The autumnal flavors dominate the initial impression, but it’s the whiplash bite of the chilies that lingers longest. Though the charcuterie appears to possess a coarse texture, it smoothly melts in your mouth. For anyone who hasn’t enjoyed heart before, it’s an easy introduction to an imposing-sounding ingredient. Read more Are You Gonna Eat That? The Partisan’s Heartechino

Linked In: Logan Sausage Company Is Living High On the Hog

Logan Sausage

“Do you have a weak stomach?” asks Kevin Logan. “Because this is good stuff.”

The 25-year-old second-generation sausage-maker of Logan Sausage Company takes me, Taylor Gourmet co-owner Casey Patten, and Taylor PR rep Doug Rashid—all clad in white coats—into a big refrigerated room, where he starts unwrapping one of several giant cylindrical containers. Inside each one is 2,000 pounds of pork.

“This is what whole muscle meat shoulder looks like,” Logan says, revealing slab stacked upon slab. “That’s basically the highest quality, leanest part of the hog you can get. And so that’s all we use.”

Next we enter an even bigger chamber in the 12,000-square-foot warehouse on an industrial street in Alexandria, near Port City Brewing Company.

“It smells awesome,” Rashid says. “What is that, garlic?”

A grinder breaks down the meat, which is mixed with spices before it’s lifted like a Ferris wheel bucket and dumped into another machine, where it’s ground some more and squeezed into casing. The sausages here use no trimmings, preservatives, nitrates, or MSG. The links pop out onto a conveyor belt, where workers with blue gloves and rubber boots align them in foam trays that slide down to another machine that wraps them in plastic before they’re shipped out to stores.

“This is Casey’s stuff right here,” Logan says, bringing over a separate box with a custom order for Pizza Parts & Service. “Should we wrap it around?”

The business associates-turned-buddies—both wearing their caps backward—pull foot after foot of seemingly endless sausage rope out of the box, wrap it around their shoulders like a scarf, and pose as Rashid and I snap photos on our phones.

“That will be a good Instagram photo for you,” Patten says.

This is sausage you won’t mind seeing made—or, apparently, turning into a fashion accessory. (Don’t worry; no one will be eating the contents of that particular box on their pizza.) And chances are you’ve tried Logan’s sausages at some point, although you might not have realized it: In addition to selling links in Safeway, Giant, Harris Teeter, and other groceries and bodegas, the family operation serves sausages to dozens of restaurants throughout the Baltimore-Washington area from Clyde’s to Pork Barrel BBQ to Georgia Brown’s.

Sausage may not be the most glamorous of meat products, but artisanal varieties are increasingly trendy, with operations like Red Apron Butcher and Meats & Foods—not to mention the many restaurants that now brag about their own housemade stuff. But unlike these younger cousins, Logan Sausage Company has been grinding for 27 years. Read more Linked In: Logan Sausage Company Is Living High On the Hog

Last Night’s Leftovers: “Speakeasy” Edition


What does it take to get in D.C.'s "speakeasies"? [Eater]

Chef Colleen Conrad takes over at Pearl Dive Oyster Palace. [Washingtonian]

Where to buy local Thanksgiving turkeys [Post]

What's the difference between fast food and fast casual in D.C.? [WBJ]

Boundary Road owners hope to open a bistro on Rhode Island Ave. NE. [PoPville]

Six new fall menus to try around D.C. [Zagat]

Five can't-miss D.C. date ideas [Thrillist]

Photo by Darrow Montgomery

Try San Francisco–Inspired Artisanal Toast and Coffee In Cocktail Glasses at Slipstream


The lowly slice of bread has become a controversial cultural phenomenon since the "artisanal toast" craze swept San Francisco. Now, fancified carbs can be found in D.C. at Slipstream, which opened on 14th Street NW earlier this week. The coffee and cocktail spot includes a "toasts" section on its daytime menu with three offerings ranging from $4.50 to $6.

Your best bet is the goat cheese mousse and avocado topped toast ($6), but you'll also find a slice slathered in butter mixed with edible marigold flower petals and covered with French radish ($5). There's also a homemade creme fraiche and jam (currently blueberry) for $4.50.

Co-owner Ryan Fleming, who previously lived in San Francisco, says Slipstream worked with Lyon Bakery to create a custom pain levain recipe with a hint of sourdough for the toast. It's baked in a pullman loaf pan and cut into inch-thick slabs. Read more Try San Francisco–Inspired Artisanal Toast and Coffee In Cocktail Glasses at Slipstream

Astro Doughnuts & Fried Chicken Truck Launches in D.C.


Astro Doughnuts & Fried Chicken is now street legal in D.C. The food truck, which launched in Virginia in January, begins serving the District today with the same doughnut flavors in its Metro Center shop plus chicken fingers and fried chicken sandwiches. (Yes, that includes the Old Bay fried chicken sandwich.)

The truck aims to spend about three days per week in D.C. and the rest in Virginia. Today, you'll find it in Friendship Heights. Follow future locations on Astro's Twitter feed: @astrodoughnuts.

Photo courtesy Astro Doughnuts

Last Night’s Leftovers: Late Night Edition


D.C.'s best late-night dining by neighborhood [Zagat]

Toki Underground hosts a gluten-free pasta pop-up. [Washingtonian]

New York Times D.C. dining bingo [Post]

There are now two vegetable-focused restaurants called Beefsteak. [Eater]

What's new and coming soon on H Street NE [District Cuisine]

Can hand-cut artisanal ice make you cocktail that much better? [NPR]

Photo of Dino's Grotto by Jessica Sidman

Here’s an Ice Cube That’s Actually Worth $1


Second State—the restaurant that charges $1 extra for artisanal cubes from a boutique ice company in its cocktails—opens today.

This upcharge, the first explicitly listed on a drink menu in D.C., has really struck a nerve. Since Y&H published a story about it a week and a half ago, the ice price has provided fodder for (or bursts of outrage from) Jezebel, Business Insider, Huffington Post, Eater, CityLab, Salon, New York Magazine, and even Fox News. (The culture wars are ON.)

Many have remarked that they would not pay $1 extra to have a drink "served on a rock." So Y&H used advanced technology to develop a new cube that's worth the up-charge.

Ideally, it's used to chill a $14 cocktail.

Photo by Jessica Sidman

Last Night’s Leftovers: The New York Times Is on It Edition


"Restaurants in D.C. are moving into residential neighborhoods." [New York Times]

Bread Furst's Bread Feasts begin this week. [Post]

Ten meatless dishes from food trucks [Washingtonian]

Eight best drinking and dining deals in D.C. [Zagat]

Chef Will Artley is leaving Pizzeria Orso. [Eater]

New brewery tours launch in D.C. [WBJ]

Coppi's Italian restaurant coming to Cleveland Park. [PoPville]

Photo of Crane & Turtle by Jessica Sidman