The latest parlor game among local foodies is guessing who President-elect Barack Obama will tap as his White House chef. The main name being tossed around is Chicagoan Art Smith, Oprah Winfrey's former personal chef who recently opened Art and Soul on Capitol Hill. The Post's Tom Sietsema caught up with Smith this week to put the question to him directly. An excerpt:

Best known for having served as the personal chef for Oprah Winfrey for 10 years, Smith has already cooked several times for the future first family, who lives a few streets away from him in Chicago's Hyde Park. ("They like delicious, healthy food," reports the diplomatic chef.) On election night, Smith prepared a private dinner for House Speaker Nancy Pelosi and about 150 Democratic stalwarts at Art and Soul. Earlier in his career, he was interviewed by the Reagan administration for the top cooking job. "I was way too young back then," says Smith, age 48.

The chef currently commutes between Chicago, his home base, and Washington. Would he be up for cooking for Obama and kin? "I'm happy my name is even in the circle," says Smith, who shows off his bipartisan nature by casually mentioning having had lunch recently with Doro Bush Koch, the current president's sister.

Who would you like to see cooking for Obama's state dinners?

Leave it to Michael Landrum, the self-proclaimed "Improprietor" of Ray's the Steaks, Ray's the Classics, and Ray's Butcher Burgers, to post this love note to Tom Sietsema after the Washington Post critic's recent dust-up over a First Bite review of the Commissary:

The one thing that doesn't make sense to me about this whole thing is what was Tom doing dating someone from Logan Tavern/Merkado/Grillfish in the first place? I mean, isn't that a little like Louis Menand dating Danielle Steele? Or Pauline Kael dating Michael Bay? (Don't get me wrong, Danielle Steele and Michael Bay are very successful at what they do and very good at their craft, but imagine how the conversation would go when Michael Bay has a new movie out..."So, honey, seen any good movies lately? No? Well, what should we go see? You know, I heard about this really good new movie that just came out. It's a provocative, insightful, layered post-modern hommage to a classic Hollywood masterpiece. Except instead of a dark, wild, disturbing projection of our deepest psycho-sexual fears and un-tamed longings in the form of a giant ape named Kong, it's got cars that turn into giant robots from outerspace...Whaddya mean you won't see it...You never want to go to ANY of my movies...I'll be on the couch."

Not that I'm jealous or anything, but if Tom really wanted to date someone in the restaurant business, would it have hurt him to at least call?

Joe Yonan, editor of the Washington Post's Food section, contacted me earlier today to clear up the paper's position on future reviews of EatWell DC restaurants, which include The Heights, Grillfish, and the Commissary. David Winer, a partner with EatWell DC, had earlier sent a letter to his mailing list, saying that the Post had agreed never to review his restaurants again following critic Tom Sietsema's hard, pipe-hitting First Bite commentary on the Commissary, which the Post has since retracted and pulled from its Web site. (The review is still available here.)

Says Yonan: "There is no agreement not to cover any of the Commissary owners' other businesses." The only agreement is that Sietsema will not handle any of the Post's future coverage of EatWell DC's restaurants.

So why did Winer think the Post had agreed never to review his places again? I don't know. But I have a call into him. More as I know it.

UPDATE (2:14 P.M.): Winer called back to say he wasn't interested in continuing the war of words. Here's what he would allow: "I never spoke to Joe Yonan, and that's the fact of the matter." Winer also said that, from the beginning, he had only one issue with the Post: "My sole problem in all of this is a conflict of interest," Winer said, "nothing more."

Three weeks ago, as we were preparing the latest installment of Dishing Expedition, I was all ready to offer up a one-paragraph summation of my lone visit to the Commissary in Logan Circle, but at the last minute, the item got cut due to space limitations. Given the ongoing flap over Washington Post restaurant critic Tom Sietsema's now-retracted First Bite review of the eatery, it seems a fitting moment to resurrect the commentary:

Scorn in the U.S.A.

I have only one comment after picking at an overcooked cheeseburger, a limp croque-monsieur, and a dry, flavor-challenged margherita pizza at the Commissary, the new flag-waving haunt in the old Merkado Kitchen space at 1443 P St. NW (202-299-0018): The economy's gonna have to get a lot worse before I dine regularly at this cheap-eats spot.

I specifically want to highlight the time frame of my original jab at the Commissary---mid-October, well before Sietsema's piece. Earlier today, EatWell DC partner David Winer, one of the owners of the Commissary, said he fears retribution from the "covey of restaurant food critics" who, for all he knows, may "have coffee together." Winer may well view this posting as a sympathetic pat on the back to Sietsema, but I offer it up as evidence that a conflict of interest does not inherently mean that the original criticism was unfounded. I understand Winer's frustration, but I'd encourage him to look at his food as much as the critic reviewing it.

Don Rockwell, founder of the online foodie board donrockwell.com, has come to Tom Sietsema's defense after the Washington Post retracted the restaurant critic's First Bite review of the Commissary in Logan Circle. Writes Rockwell:

This is a tough standard, and I stand solidly behind Tom on this one (while at the same time understanding the Post's decision). Perhaps he should have mentioned a disclaimer, but from what I know about Tom Sietsema, he is professional enough to remain objective, regardless of any potential conflicts of interest, actual or perceived. He's done it in the past with Breadline, Stoney's, etc., and from where I view things, he's maintained extremely high integrity, year after year. I'll come right out and say that I've dined with Tom in the past where he is recognized (and fawned over), and it did not affect his reviews in any way that I could see. Ever since I became forum host at eGullet, I've used aspects of his approach as models for my own behavior, and these remain in place to this very day.

Your turn: What do you think about Sietsema's mini-review and the Post's retraction?

The partners of EatWell DC, which own the Commissary on P Street NW, requested and got what they wanted following Washington Post restaurant critic Tom Sietsema's harsh early look at their new Logan Circle eatery: They got the Post to retract the First Bite article, which was originally published on Wednesday in the Food Section and is still available on Mediabistro.com. And they got this nice mea culpa in the Sunday paper:

Critic Tom Sietsema should have recused himself from reviewing the Commissary, a restaurant featured in the Oct. 29 Food section. He and one of the restaurant's owners had earlier had a personal relationship. The Washington Post regrets that he reviewed this restaurant, and will remove the review from its online archive.

When contacted on Monday, EatWell DC managing partner David Winer said he didn't want to comment any further on the matter. "I can't be party in the destruction of another human being," Winer said during our brief phone conversation. He said he had hoped to keep this ugly situation out of the media, which is why he didn't send me (or other members of the local food media) the letter that he e-mailed to the 5,000 members of the EatWell DC mailing list. I told him that I had received a copy of the letter and would run it. Winer agreed that, at this point, the letter was essentially a public document. It runs below the jump.

Read More "The Commissary Responds to Sietsema’s First Bites Review" »

Ever since Tom Sietsema docked Citronelle a star in this year's Washington Post dining guide, I had been dying to know how Michel Richard responded to the demotion. I mean, Sietsema took no pity on the city's most famous restaurant, a perennial four-star performer no more. The critic wrote:

Read More "Citronelle: Still Seeing Stars, Just One Less Than Usual" »

Frank Bruni, lead restaurant critic for the New York Times, laid himself bare in a Q&A session last week with readers. Over the course of five days, he answered some of the toughest questions that can be put to a professional eater, including those dealing with qualifications, how one selects restaurants to review, and of course, anonymity.

Whatever you think of Bruni---and he has enough detractors, it seems, to fill Madison Square Garden or at least paper the place with response ads---I think he handled these questions with the kind of intellectual finesse that you rarely find in chats and online boards. I was particularly interested in how Bruni would deal with the question of his qualifications, which, in terms of pure culinary training, are thinner than Mary-Kate Olsen.

Read More "Frank Bruni Doesn’t Like Insects But He Loves Sietsema" »