Best Upscale Update of a Childhood Classic
Milk and cookies at Toki Underground
1234 H St. NE, (202) 388-3086
Toki Underground is splashed with colorful reminders of growing up. Fantastical vinyl toys are lined up in small display cases, skateboards are turned into footrests, and the bathroom walls are plastered with pages torn from manga books. This playful sensibility is particularly evident when it comes time to order dessert. The top treats here are the fresh-from-the-oven cookies served with a cold glass of organic whole milk. The baked-to-order rounds possess the perfect balance of sturdiness and softness. They hold together when dunked into the milk, but then they practically melt on your tongue. Made by local baker Tiffany Coln of Fab Fête, the flavors change regularly, but have included interesting combinations such as kimchi-chocolate-snickerdoodle, lemon-ginger-white-chocolate, and red-miso-chocolate-chip. These might not be the cookies of your youth, but they are a happy trip in the Wayback Machine to a time when you could spend a Wednesday afternoon reading comic books, playing with action figures or coasting along on your board.