The mussels at Dr. Granville Moore’s start in the waters around Prince Edward Island and end up in steaming bowls of broth three or four days later. The specimens are fresh, large, and bursting with flavor. Granville Moore’s Moules Mariniere is one of the few dishes that never comes off the menu, and there’s reason why. The broth is simple, consisting of a rosemary herb mix, butter, white wine, and salt and pepper; chef Teddy Folkman knows how to work these ingredients to maximum effect, allowing the wine to help tamp down the fishiness of the mussels while not overloading on salt or other seasonings. It all adds up to a dish that mostly lets the shellfish stand on their own.

—Kim Gooden